How can I increase power to my Detroit 11.1L S60 (350 HP rated) Series engine

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by ivesti, May 29, 2021.

  1. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    That’s why if rebuilding it anyways, changing the crank might be feasible. The other thing to consider is the rods, The newer ones have are drilled with an oil channel going up one side. You may already have upper cooling jackets. I don’t know if the blocks are different, or just the sleeves. Supposed to guard against upper cylinder scuffing. I think yours already has that. Something to look into anyway. Some have suggested, that it contributes to liners failing, noting that it wasn’t common before it was added. That’s all opinion, I guess. Either way, if your building it from scratch, you need to get the correct kit. Definately get the 16.5 :1 pistons, to avoid heavy white smoking when cold. Later emission 12.7s had 17:1s. Don’t know much about those. Just need to do your research. Standard kits aren’t much. I’d imagine you need a different cam also, if changing the crank. They’re not much either, surprisingly. I think it can be done in an affordable way. Running the Truck as is. Doing research and accumulating parts as you go. Using an aftermarket kit such as Mahle or FP Diesel. The $800- $1000, saved going towards the crank if you can find one. Used 12.7 core engines I’ve seen usually go for $3500. Hard to find any engine parts, from junkyards, even pulleys and brackets. They usually want to sell a complete engine. But keep looking, you’ll find something that will work. New reman being $24000. Plus labor to install it. I’d bet you can build one for half that amount, inframe. Including labor.
     
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  3. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    Longer rods, or more likely taller pistons, same rods is my guess.
     
  4. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    If you post the engine model number, maybe someone can tell you if it has the oil spuirters found on premium engines. I don’t know about the 11L if it was even an option. Later blocks all were drilled and either had the oil squirted, or were capped off. The new rebuild kits come with new ones. So if yours is drilled and capped, your good to go. If not, maybe the drilled rods are an option. The purpose If the squatters is piston cooling, and possibly wrist pin lubrication. I’m not sure. The drilled rods are for wrist pin lubrication. Again not sure if they act as piston cooling. Questions to find answers to. Deciding if the blocks worth using, or if a new block and crank, maybe with a good cam would be more cost efficient. Can’t do enough research, to avoid surprises.
     
  5. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    One tip I have. The DD part #s are usually the same for aftermarket parts. So if you can get the original DD part #s for your Trucks engine from the Dealership. For instance by getting a estimate for a DD overhaul kit. You’ll then be able to shop aftermarket, and compare part#s for yours against 12.7 parts. Along with prices. That’s what I did. Lot of choices on EBay, Find it Parts, even Amazon. Gotta shop around. A $2000 Lightweight Detroit flywheel from Dealership, cost me $240 aftermarket on Amazon. It’s just as good. Everyone makes flywheels these days. Lots of choices. Same with 12.7 parts. Lot of good aftermarket choices. Stay away from aftermarket heads. DD only. Not worth saving a couple hundred bucks, in that example. Shop around. You can get a good build for half the price or less than a standard Dealership charges. And build it the way you want. Unfortunately the Dealers are of no help. DD isn’t either, when it comes to modifications. All any of them know are part #s. Knowing what you got to begin with, and Armed with the right #s you can do anything you want.
     
  6. Big Road Skateboard

    Big Road Skateboard Road Train Member

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    20210603_095643.jpg 20210605_062052.jpg 20210605_062030.jpg I've got an update on an old 11.1 DDEC II. Bought this truck of a Nebraska farm. 11.1 DDEC II 350 HP.

    Brought it home and did lots of work, including injectors, overhead, adjust fuel pressure, and much non engine work. Stock injectors BTW.

    I had never pulled a trailer more than 3 or 4 miles, but when I picked up a rental in Springfield, MO and brought it back near Fort Smith, I knew I had to do something. Even empty, I was dropping 3 gears (13) to get up small hills.

    Sent the ECM to Pittsburgh Power while I was working on the suspension. Got it back and noticed a difference bobtail.

    Hooked to my trailer Thursday morning for my first ever load and loaded 48k of stone. Got back up to 40 near the 270 in OK.

    Set the cruise at 72 and didn't shift till I got off at Elk City.

    Took that load to Taos, NM, by way of Raton, through Cimarron to Eagles Nest, Angel Fire, and up and back down to Taos. Picked up another load yesterday and took over Monarch Pass.

    Not sure how much it's putting to the ground, but it's impressive, and a bit worrisome. Otherwise no issues with the tune other than my pyrometer quit, so I'm unsure of EGT's.

    Sitting in Montrose now waiting unload Monday, then pick up 48k of sticks in Dolores. I'll be headed over Wolf Creek, La Veta, and Raton Pass Monday so I'll update how it's still doing.
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2021
  7. Benjamin Howard

    Benjamin Howard Bobtail Member

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    Can you send me that enformaching wher you send your too Ben @ roadpuppy1@gmail.com
     
  8. jamespmack

    jamespmack Road Train Member

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    Phoenix Heavy Haul Thanks this.
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