How far to slide tandems?

Discussion in 'Questions From New Drivers' started by Zephirus, May 19, 2009.

  1. Zephirus

    Zephirus Light Load Member

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    Feb 27, 2009
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    Hey everyone,

    I had a question and I have drove a truck before and never really figured it out. On sliding both the 5th wheel and the trailer tandems. About how much weight are you shifting per notch / hole?

    The only time I had to move the tandems was one cold and slushy day. Ill never forget that day because I had to move the trailer tandems and everytime I pulled the lever, it went right back in. There wasn't anyway to lock it in the out position so I had to get another trucker to help me. Something was broke on it but I lucked out and got it right the first time.

    I understand how to distribute weight such as if your trailer tandems are too heavy you wanna slide them back and if the steers are too light, you wanna slide the fifth wheel forward.

    But... I have no clue on a rule of thumb about how much weight is shifting per notch. I am about to enter the trucking industry again. This time I am going to be hauling flatbed instead of vans but still. Does anyone have a estimation on how much weight is shifted per hole on both the fifth wheel and the trailer tandems? I am sure they are all different but there has to be a general rule of thumb to judge by.
     
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  3. 7mouths2feed

    7mouths2feed "Family Man"

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    I can't swear to it but I believe each hole on the trailer is about 500lbs.
     
  4. Zephirus

    Zephirus Light Load Member

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    Feb 27, 2009
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    Ok and I heard that each hole on the fifth wheel is about 250. Not sure though, never had to touch that one in the past. Good thing too because I hear all the time about how they are not used very often so they are a pain to unlock sometimes.
     
  5. notarps4me

    notarps4me Road Train Member

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    Flats is a whole new ball game. When I pulled vans the trailers I had were 500 per hole. I flat. I never slide my fifth wheel. Get an empty weight full of fuel before you start loading your flat. You tell the shipper where to place the load. I am trying to remember seems like for every foot you move the load you move about a 1000 lbs. It is easiest to center load. Your state pockets are 2 foot apart. If you are getting 6 bundles of bar that is 20 foot. You can count your state pockets from the center 20 forward and 20 rear to set your timbers. Most trailers the center light is in the middle of your trailer.

    You need to make sure you are loaded right. You get an overweight in a coop and there is no sliding axles. It is wrecker time to move bundles..$$$$
     
  6. 7mouths2feed

    7mouths2feed "Family Man"

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    I would accept the 250lbs for 5th wheel notch. Another thing to consider is clearance fot the trailer when you move the 5th wheel. Many will move it forward for weight and for increased aero effect but move it back for docking. I got my headache rach from a guy that forgot to move his 5th wheel back and the container trailer had a short pin placement. Backed her up and bent the rack legs pretty good.
     
  7. bigo1969

    bigo1969 Light Load Member

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    florida
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    Get yourself a set vise-grip pliers, they'll come in handy for locking the release lever, for those pesky trailer's.
     
    panhandlepat and wulfman75 Thank this.
  8. Crash935

    Crash935 Medium Load Member

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    The averages are about right, 250 a hole for the 5th wheel and 500 a hole for the trailer but this is just an average and can change with the manufacture.

    Also get your self a 2lb hammer, pry bar and a short pice of 6x6. May need to use the hammer to knock the pins in on the trailer and the hammer and pry bar to knock the pins in on the 5th wheel. Sometimes need a chock block to keep from dragging the trailer if its loaded heavy. And if your loaded heavy and have to move the 5th wheel it helps to crnak the dolly legs down and take some weight off the tractor.
     
    davetiow Thanks this.
  9. 25(2)+2

    25(2)+2 Trucker Forum STAFF Staff Member

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    The proper way to slide a 5th wheel is to put the landing gear an the ground and dump the suspension on the tractor, take all of the weight off so it slides easily and smoothly. Plan B for use when dump valve isn't there is to crank it enough up so that the suspension is fully up without supporting much trailer weight,lots of cranking and maybe not feasible if the low side is out on the landing gear. This would be the right way if it is a spring ride tractor as well.

    You can jerk it loaded but it could cause damage, and you may end up one tooth off on some of the close spaced ones.

    250 lbs per hole is only a guess, some have larger intervals between settings than others.

    I have seen 4 inch hole spacing on trailer rails,too.
     
  10. jlkklj777

    jlkklj777 20 Year Truckload Veteran

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    Not to be contrary but with the trucks and trailers I have driven the weights are just the opposite of what has been posted so far.

    1 notch on a sliding fifth wheel has always been 500 lbs. These weights have been consistent with driving Freightliner, Volvo, and International trucks with sliding fifth wheels.

    While 1 hole on the trailer slide was equivalent to 250 lbs. The trailers I have pulled have all been dry vans of various sizes and makes such as Great Dane, Fruehauf, Strick, Utility, Wabash, etc.
     
  11. Scuby

    Scuby Heavy Load Member

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    Its been my experince 200 - 250 on tractor depending on model and trailer it depends on the manufacture. Reefers can get tricky since the reefers weigh 1500 -2000 lbs depending on their age and who makes them.
     
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