How long does it take to burn off moisture in Oil?

Recently did a head gasket on a 3406E 5th cylinder hydro locked fire ring gave out. I havent changed the oil I was going to run if for a couple miles to check the work. When I checked the oil there was water drops on the dip stick after running it down the road Im getting steam an water drop lets from the blowby tube. I pulled some oil out in a jar and theres nothing there ( I let it sit over night to separate) I checked the radiator and Im not seeing anything missing. My next step is drop the pan an put pressure on the radiator and see if a liner seal is leaking. BUT just to get an idea does anyone know how long it takes to burn of water that might have leaked in the oil when I pulled the head?

 

You can burn a small amount of water or moisture out...not antifreeze mix. Trace amounts of antifreeze will eat at the bearings quickly. Change the oil after warming it up and see what comes back.

Just to say it a blown fire ring especially on #5 and 6 is almost guaranteed a liner is low, low enough the odds of a new gasket holding for just a bit are low

 

Woreout gave you good advice.
I had a cat loader with a 3304 that had a cracked head and leaked water into the cylinder which ended up in the oil. Even after fixing and changing the oil it took several hours of operation over several days before condensation stopped showing up under the oil fill cap. Thinking about other engines i have done similar work to i don’t remember it taking nearly that long or never anything noticeable but this was an especially messy job because of it being done in the field and had water getting into the oil before i took the head off.

 

Wasn't that a common problem on the E's? I seem to remember that's what the guy who rebuilt the one I was driving when it happened told me. Cut some counterbores and threw in the proper shims and said it would likely not reoccur.

 

All the 3400 series are known to fret the counter bores. Especially 5 and 6 the block runs hotter at the back. I believe in cutting them every time though I don’t use the stainless shim. It just sorta floats under the flange of the liner. Many that cut blocks cut them without the liners present and do the math swear it’s right and no. Many don’t see the tiny cracks that form in the back of the previous cut around the wall. Those need cut out. I use a thick insert you can get from CAT Or have a machine shop make for repair if ones been cut to service limit. You cut it down then press these in till they bottom out and try to leave .008 to .0010 protruding above the deck. Then set your counter bore tool back up and cut them down really close to .002 or so. Then patiently start with a draw file till she’s flat. Now you have a fresh level surface to build off of. The draw back is you get them real hot that insert will come out with the liner some times. It’s pros and cons and what you can live with.

Many believe the block doesn’t wear but when that rod comes around the bottom it’s putting pressure on ####. You put in the low rpm better mileage theory that everyone applies these days and you’ve got a bigger boom each revolution as well as considerably more boost. CAT says inspect and measure every time. If it’s 750k or more miles cut them. I realize them ol 425’s were not big power but they were run higher and we just didn’t cut as many. The lower cat said run em the more we cut. As the 425 became less common it became way more common to cut them. My opinion is from drivers being used to E models and up which because they will they think it’s better to run them down low. Just an opinion sorry for the book

 

Glad to get the book... so much of that old knowledge will disappear if it's not talked about once in a while!

Rarely do any of the underlying things involved in running low rpm ever get mentioned in any of discussions about it. As you mention, there's higher forces on the rod and thus the liner. Same power at lower rpm means higher cylinder pressure, that's more work on the rod's end. The higher BMEP also means higher temps, which is more NOX, which means more EGR and DEF to handle. And more EGR effects BMEP... and on and on...

We're lucky in the sense that the electronics hides just how much power is lost to emissions systems, those of us old enough to remember the 70's well remember what all that did to power before the electronics allowed better combustion control and power levels to come back up. And while I am admittedly mixing compression and spark ignition, it doesn't change the fact that EGR and the combustion timing changes that go along with EGR's effort to lower combustion temps costs big power in both types of engines. Be nice to see what one of these modern engines would produce in a straight power timing tune, without even changing fueling levels. It would be jaw dropping for sure. The same could said for adjusting the timing for economy alone, I would imagine a significant jump.

OP, sorry for the hijack...it's Otter's fault, since he's the founder of the Hijack Club and no longer here to defend himself! LOL