How to load 4 car/Kaufman?

Discussion in 'Car Hauler and Auto Carrier Trucking Forum' started by Chris Routh, Jan 8, 2017.

  1. Terry270

    Terry270 Road Train Member

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    You need to stop reading brochures at the dealer and start applying common sense. I don't care what they say, the 4500 and 5500 have a C channel frame, stronger suspension, and wheels and tires that are actually rated for the weight (19.5s).

    And yes, deleting right away is the way to go. Better fuel economy, cooler EGTs, cooler coolant temp, longer engine life, longer turbo life and no $3-4k Dpf replacement down the road.
     
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  3. Midwest1

    Midwest1 Medium Load Member

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  4. Chris Routh

    Chris Routh Bobtail Member

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    I don't know if any of you remember reading in my previous posts, that I was a new car sales manager, but I didn't mention it was for dodge. I have a 98 Intrepid that I bought while a manager at $1500 below dealer cost, of course with an employee discount, but with the kick backs the dealership got just for selling a car made that up, and all the cheap sales prices we did.
    Anyway, Terry and Hulld are correct, and actually if you pressed hard enough and maybe have to spend $500 for a lawyer to do the pressing, you won't void all of your warranty, but it will be a pain to get something done. This warranty issue will only be for the powertrain, even though there are probably other deletes that have to be done with the ecm, so it communicates correctly. I don't completely know the deletes, I just know that all the computers communicate and take data from each other.
    The 3500's are always tuned up for awards over the competitors, but the frame is the same for the 4500/5500. They de-tune the 6.7L for the 4500/5500 for longevity of the powertrain, as well as the construction people that buy these and practically use them as dump trucks, bulldozers, and tractors, however many construction companies don't do OTR driving, which takes it's toll on the powertrain doing short mileage stuff, and/or brute power stuff. This is what the 4.88's are for brute power stuff requiring high torgue conversion. The 4.10's are the best for towing, but many recently have had good luck with the 3.73's with better fuel mileage. If you talk to the sales manager they can order you whatever you want. When the dealership tells you to talk to the "Truck specialist" and he comes out in a cowboy hat, cowboy boots, walks and talks like a rancher, or maybe a trucker, make sure he's not the janitor!LOL.......Catch my drift. There usually are no experts, they just sell cars. You need to know the packages and the possibilities, which you can find all over the internet. Mainly talk to someone that will talk with you, and not push you. If they do, go somewhere else, or talk to the sales manager, they typically know what to do to get the deal done.
    The 4500/5500 simply have more sturdy specs/suspension/brakes/tires/etc. It is absolute nonsense when the GWVR for the 3500 is only 14k, and the 5500 is 19500K to say the 3500 has a larger towing capacity. Nonsense! The powertrain/rear end 4.88's will cost you more fuel, but it will bulldoze better than the 3500. If you don't believe me do a tug of war between the 5500/3500, like we did between the Ford/Ram. However the 5500 won't go uphill as fast towing as the 3500 because of less horsepower. Part of those towing ratings are based on towing at 60mph, and that's why the 3500 does better than the 5500. The 5500 rides like a bulldozer also, which makes the 4500 the truck to get until the 5500 rides like the Ford's do.
    Also, don't want any warranty issues. Use Amsoil for every fluid that you can use it for and I believe you can run to at least 500k without any major power train repairs. Amsoil is so smooth, it takes stress off the engine, therefore making the sensors collect data in a tight range, like when it's new, so the sensors won't have any wide ranges, therefore setting them off, except the ones that are more timers than sensors, to get you back to the dealership. You can do warranty repair with a highly credible mechanic like Christian Brothers, but they will rip you off of major repairs too. That 98 Intrepid has 340K original miles on it with no major repair, using Amsoil in everything.
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2017
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  5. trucko

    trucko Medium Load Member

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    Can you explain what do you mean by delete?
     
  6. brian991219

    brian991219 Road Train Member

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    Delete is an illegal modification of the emission control system common on newer diesel engines. The majority of your breakdown issues with new trucks are directly related to the diesel particulate filter, diesel exhaust fluid injector, exhaust gas recirculation system, and associated sensors. If you remove (delete) them the base engine is very reliable, however this will void many parts of the factory warranty and opens you as well as the shop that does the delete up to legal action if caught as it is a Federal crime to tamper with or modify exhaust and emission control systems.
     
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  7. Chris Routh

    Chris Routh Bobtail Member

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    In the past yes they just removed stuff, and not a lot of computer modifications were needed, but I've read that since 2012, these engines are able to simply be tuned back to the 3500's, which isn't a true delete, just an engine re-tune is this true? I do know that it's the same engine, and engine parts, but the engine on the 4500/5500 is de-tuned for reliability, and fed regulations is different(more critical) on the bigger class trucks, even though it's the same truck, just beefier. So is the delete process different now? I would think it should be, because it has basically become the computer that runs everything. I actually build computers as well, and did a re-solder on my 98 Intrepid ECM, and used a computer to flash it a long time ago.
     
  8. Terry270

    Terry270 Road Train Member

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    The cab and chassis trucks (which include the 3500 c&c as well) use a different intake manifold and injectors which suck to be honest. They restrict airflow and the injectors seem to be less reliable and cost around 60% more than pickup. I've seen a few engine failures on c&c trucks and I believe that it's due to restricted airflow and bad injectors. And probably neglect as well. But yes if you have a C&C truck I would make sure to delete it ASAP and always keep a clean air filter in it.

    Aftermarket 2 micron fuel filter probably not a bad idea either to keep the pump and injectors healthy
     
  9. Chris Routh

    Chris Routh Bobtail Member

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    So Terry, I didn't know that about the intake, I haven't read that much, just touched it. Is it correct what I read though, that the sensors and such are the same, that a delete is to re-tune the computer? I think it sucks what the feds are doing to the big rigs for emissions, and now the bigger trucks as well. I think the feds really don't want any OTR's, except in China, where they are ok with emissions........real and obvious emissions, so much so that China just built a Wall around one of it's cities that is actually a particulate filter. So at least our feds aren't that bad!
     
  10. Coguy

    Coguy Bobtail Member

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    Hey guys I have already started buying equipment and agree with the above statements. However, I bought a 3500 dually Aisin with 4.10's. I am putting my 16 mega cab back to stock as my wife's dealership wants it. What is the truth about deleting a dot vehicle? I know it makes them more reliable and the oil samples are always better, I just don't want to be fined or put out of service for this? Any info or a pm would be great. If it's not an issue I will swap my delete stuff over to the dually.
     
  11. Terry270

    Terry270 Road Train Member

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    To delete is to remove the egr and egr cooler and install block off plates. Then to remove the Cat, NOx and dpf from the exhaust leaving just a muffler. Then retune of course for maximum efficiency and no CEL

    Oh it is always a risk that you will get caught and fined, worst case your whole rig impounded. Yet another reason I decided to go with a pre emissions Semi
     
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