How to tell when your clutch needs to be replaced.

I just had the clutch done in my 387 before it burnt. It had the same symptoms it would shudder and free play would go away, it was broken springs getting caught up in the clutch and causing problems. Luckily they didn't dig grooves I the flywheel so deep they couldn't be mechined out, but it was real close. You should get it checked for sure.

 

If one is at that time to get a new clutch, the Lipe clutch is the best option going. Easy install, easy to adjust, and easy to gauge wear. The absolute best clutch going.

 

X 100 for sure Love mine

 

I had a strange thing happen with my clutch a couple of days ago. I was going up a hill and went to clutch it out of gear for a down shift and it felt stuck in gear , wouldn't come out. I hit the clutch again and it came out but felt like it was still kinda stuck. I stopped at the top and when I went to put it in gear I had no clutch brake and the pedal had no resistance at all. I pushed the pedal a few times and then it worked just like normal. It has been working normal but occasionally feels like it gets a bit hung up and the pedal needs to be pushed a bit deeper than usual to get it to come out of gear smoothly. Any ideas what could cause this?

 

Sounds like the clutch center place between the discs is hanging up on the drive lugs in the flywheel. This will cause a no release condition and your clutch brake to not work.

 

Didn't have enough free play, so I adjusted the clutch and got the right freeplay. Drove for a bit, then lost all free play with, moved truck off main road using deep low. Adjusted the clutch again and got right freeplay, drove and same thing happened.

It's one of those dana-spicer ones, where you remove the lock bar and make the adjustment using a pry tool. Was wondering if the lock bar is not holding when bolted down. Got the fingers so they curve down in between the adjustment ring teeth (square-ish towers), but it seems like it's barely holding, like at the top of the teeth. I had to move like 20 teeth to get the freeplay back.

Does this mean the clutch is worn to the point wear it can't be adjusted anymore?

Was wondering how many rotations of adjustment are in a clutch?

Questions, questions, lol. Hope someone can help out. Thanks.

 

When the adjuster ring is that far in and the lock plate won't retain it's position then you have exceeded the adjustment limits of the clutch.

You are going about adjusting your clutch in the wrong sequence. It is a two step procedure and you're skipping a step.

1st step is to adjust the clutch brake air gap and measure between the release bearing and the clutch brake. 1/2" is the proper measurement, 9/16" maximum air gap. Once you have established this go to step two.

2nd step is to adjust the clutch linkage for free travel. 1/8" gap where the yoke or fork fingers hit the release bearing when pedal gets depressed.

 

Thank you for clarifying that, and the missing step.

So what you're saying is that when the clutch is new the lock plate likely sits very deep in the adjustment ring teeth, and as it wears and you adjust it the lock plate does not sit as quite deep, and at the end life of the clutch the lock plate has traveled so far out it won't lock the adjustment ring teeth.

 

You're very welcome!
Yes, as you adjust the ring in clockwise you are headed farther away from the lock. But please take note and understand this fully: Although the adjuster ring affects free travel in the pedal when adjusted, the purpose of the adjustment of this ring is NOT to adjust your free travel. The purpose of the adjustment ring is to set the air gap of 1/2" on your clutch brake. When the clutch (internal adjustment) is used for its intended purpose you never run out of adjustment in the life of a clutch.

You now need to back your clutch ring (internal adjustment) out or counter clockwise until you have a 1/2" air gap between the release bearing and the clutch brake and at that point your lock will again fit deep into the ring as intended. Then adjust your clutch linkage for proper free travel and you're done.

This is the proper way to adjust your clutch, don't let anyone tell you different. Eaton/Spicer sponsors free training in this method due to so many are misinformed of the proper procedures. Using incorrect methods shortens clutch life and causes unsatisfactory clutch performance.

 

Well thank you again, that makes a lot of sense.