Hub removal on the trailer to change s-cam.

He's not joking. If you have to use a socket to get that nut off then it was probably too tight to begin with or it was über hot during disassembly. A hammer and chisel is very common as is finding them loose enough to remove by hand. The preload is very light. That's why locking tabs or nuts are imperative.

 

not kidding. I've also never used a torque wrench or dial indicator to set them. Just by feel..
unless they have those preset cone deals between bearings

 

The two nut setup with the lock plates in between them the outer nut should be tight. Don't remember the spec but I think it's a couple hundred ft-lbs. The inner nut is normally relatively loose. Inner nut sets the end play of the bearings, lock ring holds the inner nut in place, thin lock plate with the bendable tabs keeps the outer nut from backing off. You definitely want that outer nut tight.

 

Tighten the inner one down to seat everything, then back it off. Tighten to just a little over hand tight then install the outer and torque and you will be fine.

 

What Star Rider said.

If it's your first time doing one you could put a dial indicator on it to verify the end play is good.

IMO you can never be too careful when it comes to critical stuff like this. Last thing you want is a wheel coming off.

 

This is for conmet hubs.
https://cdn.intelligencebank.com/us...riginal/SERV_ConMet_HubServiceManual_10084476