I think my front drive is going out. Could use some advice please.

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Bad Monkey, Jun 20, 2016.

  1. Oscar the KW

    Oscar the KW Going Tarpless

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    That's always a good question, one thing to realize though, is as long as the truck is in decent shape, it will never really depreciate much more than its current value.

    You could spend $10,000-$20,000 getting everything tip top, and be good to go for a long time. Or, you could go drop $40,000 or more on a different truck, and be good for a long time, or spend the same $10,000-$20,000 on the newer one anyway.

    If you like what you have, with the current economic climate we are in now, if I were you I'd keep fixing what you have.
     
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  3. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    I can not answer that and it sounds bad. Trucks with big payments out of service for emission problems sound worse to me. Maybe prioritize your repairs and try to work on a monthly budget. I doubt the spring is a first priority. The rear hangers are most surly worn out also. If the left hanger is worn more than the one on the right the spring may not be the problem. If only the left spring is replaced then it may lean to the right.
     
  4. Bad Monkey

    Bad Monkey Medium Load Member

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    So what what if I dont like the pos? And I don't.
     
  5. BoostedTeg

    BoostedTeg Road Train Member

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    Then get rid of it if you absolutely hate it. Do you owe money on it?
     
    Oscar the KW Thanks this.
  6. Oscar the KW

    Oscar the KW Going Tarpless

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    I wouldn't want to drive something I hated.
     
  7. Bad Monkey

    Bad Monkey Medium Load Member

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    I should apologise for my bad mood last night. Although what I said was true, Maybe hating my truck was too strong a word. Maybe dislike. Anyways I made some progress today. I drained the oil from all 3 boxes and the front drive was the worst. Only a few small pieces of metal came out of it, one looked like a very small piece of a tooth and the other looked like part of a snap ring or something similar with part of it being smashed. Once I disconnected the drive shaft I could turn the yoke of the front drive a little then it would stop hard. If I forced a little it sounded like a gear slip. So I am 80% sure it is the front drive. But I did not think to disconnect the rear shaft to eliminate the rear drive. I will do that in the morning to make sure. Unless I need a u joint puller to disconnect that one I may need to order and wait for that puller.
     
    TheDude1969 Thanks this.
  8. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    No need you are above average for anyone that had your week.
    Before u joint pullers we put a 20 ton jack on blocks and under driveshaft yoke. Removed the bolts from the top through shaft joint and jacked. Tapping the yoke outside the joint helps sometimes. Be safe!
    If its a keeper swap it out. If your undecided or the money is thin pull the power divider section off first. You maybe able to put in a cluster gear or something and get out under $1000. Be sure the P/D is disengauging.
     
  9. x1Heavy

    x1Heavy Road Train Member

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    Learn something every day.

    In the old days the tktktktktk from a axle back there is a kiss of death.

    No one said anything about spinning the trans in idle checking the suspect gears while a second person eyeballs the rear of the trans where it will go into a drive shaft. If you had any kind of surface you would rest a material small with the shaft rotating away to see if there is any trouble going inside the transmission box.

    I once tore a axle out inside the gear box back there, it took a bite out of a gear that was machined lengthwise about 14 inches and 2 to 3 inches wide. The bite was about two inches square when the truck got into it. I don't know if it came out of the rear of the transmission ( I think it does) or the two axles back there, however my experience was the same. Tow please. The good news was we never saw that truck again. Putting it into 3rd (GMC day cab... think it was a brigader) required the stick to be somewhere into the passenger seat before it broke bobtail.
     
  10. Bad Monkey

    Bad Monkey Medium Load Member

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    Thanks for the tip on the bottle jack trick I may try that if I have to. If I'm going to the trouble I going to get a good reman center cection, and I may do the wheel bearings while I'm at it
     
  11. Oscar the KW

    Oscar the KW Going Tarpless

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    If there's metal in the oil, and you replace the center section, I would absolutely do the wheel bearings and seals at the same time.
     
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