I Wonder Why My Wheel Seal Blew?

The other side of the axle was wet so I decided to change that one out too. The inside edge of the shoes closest to the wheels were soaked. That was a time bomb ready to blow too.

The LOCKNUT on that side was loose enough to turn by hand and the nut that has the nipple was backwards so the lock washer wasn't flush and wasn't actually locking anything at all.

The more I dig into this the more it frustrates me. Mechanics like that really give the industry a bad name. I can almost give him the benefit of the doubt on the driver's side. Accidents happen but now this nonsense on the passenger side just shows he was extremely careless or utterly clueless. Neither one are acceptable in this field of work.

 

The locknut crosses ok but after reading the installation procedure I'm not impressed. Still basically the same amount of work as my existing setup.

 

I’ve had 3 bad experiences with others doing my wheel ends. That’s why I bought the torque wrenches and do them myself. Everyone has their own technique. Tech at the TA showed me one of those single locking types. After reading up on them, I’m convinced it’s the best system. It’s fool proof. The 2 nut system is always inconsistent, even when following the official procedure. I was surprised to find one of my steers with burnt oil. I did it myself a few yrs ago. Thought I had it set perfectly. It never felt hot. I just did both fronts again. I’ll be keeping an eye on them. Within a week or so, Jack it up and spin each one. Make sure they’re not too tight or too loose.

 

You have to confirm run out with a guage. One side was dead on at .01 and the other side was .06 today. The single nut system Stemco sells says to use a gauge too in their instructions. If it were perfectly set there would never be a need to gauge. They're trying to reinvent the wheel but still following the TMC procedure.

 

I don’t know what lock tab washer you picked up but some are about 1/16 thick and a pita to bend especially to the outside with long hubs and other are about half that thick. Just thinking if you’re concerned about not enough axle in the nut. I would be comfortable as long as there was half a thread showing. only thing is those thin ones sometimes want to shear the key so make sure you lube things up so they don’t try and turn with the nut.

 

It's pictured above with a part number. It was thicker than I'm used to seeing but I pre-bent a couple tangs to have a slight angle ahead of time before installation so I could get them to bend far enough with a pry bar once on the spindle. Otherwise, they were just too thick to manipulate inside the hub installed. There were about two spindle threads showing once every was tightened and torqued. Worked out real well!

 

Landstar inspection?

 

Dr. Preload master race checking in. This system uses a Temper brand nut, which is similar (and cost about the same) to the Stemco nut with the inside locking ring but with a relief on the back to clear the press arms. Preload is exactly right every time. The tool pulls on the spindle and the arms press against the outer bearing inner race. The picture of the tool in use is obviously one of my trailer hubs, but they do make them to fit steer and driver hubs. @ProfessionalNoticer I'm unsure of the range of coverage, you'd have to call about older or less common spindles. Downside the tools run $500 - 700 or so, and fit only one spindle type. You'd have to buy 3 tools to cover a truck and trailer. Or find a shop that has them and pay them to do it. Upside is: if my trailer tires last an extra year, the tool is paid for and then some. I also have two of the same truck/trailer, so the cost is spread out and more useful.

I finally got through doing all hubs on both my trailers. Massive improvement in ride quality on both, along with a tiny 0.2 mpg gain in fuel economy. I also bought the tool to fit steer hubs, but have not had time to tackle those just yet. I've had a productive couple months with other maintenance chores, so the steer axle seals and bearing preload are steadily moving up the priority list. No indications of issues with the drives at the moment, so I have not bought the system for those yet.

 

I would look at the diagram for your hub and see what's actually supposed to be there.

Maybe along the way someone did not put the part that locks in there. They have to be locked or they will work their way loose.

You keep a close eye on your truck and that saved you a lot of money with this.

 

Are you a salesman for this system because it sure sounds like it.
I can’t see the preload or lack of making any difference in tire wear or ride unless they’re massively loose.
Might be able to sell me on the extra mpg.