I Wonder Why My Wheel Seal Blew?

Or the old locking nut and tang that bends over to secure it. Lots of hubs been removed and installed with a hammer/chisel lol. I found out yesterday my drives have 2 separate locking nuts‍♂️. One has the detent tabs the socket pushes down, the other is the orange ring with teeth on it.

 

This is the sort of thing that enters my mind and motivates me when I'd really rather not be out working on my trucks.

 

Something caught my eye, maybe someone in here can answer my question. My truck runs the regular old SKF #47697. When I replaced the one yesterday, I got everything seated and nut in place, turning the hub while watching the seal I noticed the inside rubber portion of the seal was stationary like not turning with he metal part of the seal that’s driven into the hub. Is that normal? Or did I F up? Never paid any attention before.

 

The only experience i’ve had with a missing cotter pin or one that was failed to put in was on a school friends uncles ‘68 GTO convertible. He framed up it in ‘87 when we were in highschool and had only been driving it a couple of days. We were coming down the road on the school bus when we saw his uncle and dad standing next to the car that was in the middle of the intersection at a stop sign. Bottom balljoint nut came loose after a few miles of turns and the coil spring popped out and wheel and tire took out fender. Those two guys drank a lot of beer after work and on weekends while doing that project. Lol!

 

If its a one piece seal the rubber should not turn at all. Two piece seals will. When first installed and tight I’ve seen it happen both ways from time to time were rubber rotates and metal doesn’t or the metal will rotate and the rubber stays put. As long as it doesn’t leak it should be ok. Seals will loosen up a bit and may rotate like designed to do in no time at all.

 

Ok so normal for my particular seal to not rotate then? That makes me feel a lot better lol