If you are new, watch this little video about chaining up in the snow and ice.

Good video. I personally like the ladders, some say diamonds are quicker to put on though..Ehh Ill stick to ladders.

 

Thanks Jack!! I'm not new, but I've never put on chains. Put on cables once but I'm sure my luck is running out. Will make sure I have that tool. Thanks again and God bless.

 

Good video and about time someone did one of this quality. And don't think because you have chains on you can drive 40 MPH up Donner. I think the more common stated max speed is 30 MPH and that seems about right, any speed over 35 for very long and you're asking for some tore up equipment, lost chains, and other potential serious issues.

Also, if you're new to this or you have a new set of chains and/or tires setup and you're not real sure how they will "settle in", try and pull over and check the chain tension after a half mile or so (or as soon as the opportunity presents itself) ALWAYS keep plenty of 18 inch bungee cords on board because they will come in handy to keep chains hugging the tire instead of flailing about tearing up your quarter fenders.

Before you drape them over the tires, be sure they have not managed to get twisted up or turned inside themselves at the ends.
It sure looks easy, though .. bobtailing, on dry pavement, in a parking lot

 

How many bungee cords do you recommend per tire, and about how much do those bungee cords cost? Also do you find that tool in the bag of chains normally?

 

Usually, 2 per wheel is adequate. [tension] symmetry is the name of the game and 4 equally opposing points of tension is typically adequate. A good set of [new] chains on new tires can sometimes be run without bungees and these may only be used for "insurance". I've seen chains run long periods without bungees. Just depends on the chain specs, chain wear, and tire wear. The tightening wrench will be in a bag of new chains but if you get a truck with chain hangers, chances are the wrench is nowhere to be found in the truck. Ask the shop for a chain wrench, if they don't have them available, they can often be found in western and northern truckstops. Keep the wrench in your tool box, not lumped in with the chains somewhere.

 

Also beware what size tire you have. my company has a mix of 22.5/24.5 tires on the truck/pups and dollies and its a pain in the rear trying to make sure I have enough for each size tire.

 

Also how many miles should or can you run the chains. Are they only for the mountain inclines and declines? Or can they be still driven on roads if icy conditions still exist?

 

I've seen freight haulers run them on dry pavement knowing they'll probably be on ice again 50 miles down the road. Typically, on passes, you'll just want them on when you're required to have them at/near the upside-base and off on the other side near the down-side base. Every situation is different but outside of steep[er] grades or an ice or freezing rain situation, you'll not want to run on chains any longer then you feel they or more of a traction asset than a speed liability. Wether you are loaded heavy or light, wether traction feels "good" or not factors in to what seems to be prudent in that given situation.

Also remember, some snow/ice situations are almost permanent in some areas once December has arrived and you will wait a long time waiting on them to clear, but other situations a 6 hour hold can mean the difference between a hairy 20 miles or an easy 20 miles. Are the crews working or not? Is it warming up or getting colder? is the storm just beginning or moving out? is the load hot or can it probably wait perhaps 24 hours? are you comfortable driving on 6-7% grades on slick snow pack or fresh wet snow? is it dark or daytime?

I personally will drive on virtually and snow/ice situation (barring a freezing rain situation) during good light hours, but once it gets dark and especially if it's an unfamiliar road or questionable setup, I'll probably park and take a 10.

 

Nice video Jack, but your chain installation is backward. Please ignore the way he put the chains on....and check instead this youtube video.



The hooks must point out, and the bungee cord ends also need to point outward to avoid tire damage... but thanks for the effort...just fix that off bit and it's a winner.