Question:
A: pre e-log
or
B: pre emission
and
C: "Both" can NOT be an answer
Which would you choose? Is the e-log / babysitter more of a hit to the bottom line of an O/O or is the ongoing costs of EGR/DPF/SCR systems more of a long term burden. Look forward to your input and thoughts.
If you had to choose...
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by SoDel, Nov 11, 2016.
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Pre-emission. That is they way I have done it. A 2013 FL glider with a pre-emission motor and using Elogs. No complaints. Not lost any money using Elogs, and have saved a grip of money not having an emissions truck that is a shop queen.
Road Killer, 51.50, Dave_in_AZ and 1 other person Thank this. -
If you go no elog you automatically go Pre-emmision.
Road Killer, wore out, OLDSKOOLERnWV and 4 others Thank this. -
Emissions no question .....
Road Killer and SoDel Thank this. -
I didn't have emissions issue with my 2012 Volvo D13, but you do have to get the DPF cleaned about every 18 months and its about $1600. I bought it used, and everyone tells me the main EGR valve has to be done at least once and its like $1200, but it had already been done. Hassle free motor.
I ask everyone I see when I have time if I think they own their truck, and get reviews all over the spectrum.
Seems like Cummins and Paccar got better the last 2 years and Detroit's have gotten worse.
Anything '09,'10,'11, just avoid.
Seems like 12' they started getting it together.
Ran into a guy with a 2017 Coronado with a DD16. He's had it 3 months, and on the road 5 weeks, the rest is shop time.
If you never run into California, get something pre emissions or a glider.
DEF equates to $0.01 mile for the fluid.Road Killer and SoDel Thank this. -
Just out of curiosity, wonder if the Mack engines, which are very similar to Volvo design, have a similar track record as the Volvos. Don't hear much about them.
Road Killer Thanks this. -
The only two guys ive talked to with Mack's were company drivers, and all they said was it doesn't have much power.Road Killer Thanks this.
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I get what youre saying, I guess I should clarify a little. Is it worth it to buy a 99 or older at the inflated prices on the market or take the savings on an e logged 2000-2003Road Killer Thanks this.
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If your going to do that get pre 2000 all the way.
You must have some good customers though.
The thing about rehabbing an old truck like that is, your literally going to have to rebuild the entire truck. Parts might be tricky. Your going to be scrutinized, so really your going to have to, or they just gonna pick you apart doing inspections.
And fuel mileage. How is any pre 2000 truck gonna compete with modern truck, at least doing box or reefer. Flat probably wouldn't matter.Road Killer and SoDel Thank this. -
Understood. If you're mechanically inclined you'll be better off with an older truck. Not necessarily for major repairs but rather for the little odds and ends and/or basic maintenance requirements. If you run something with a 3406e in it you'll have the OPTION to run ELD or not. That flexibility, to me, is good stuff. Not to mention, you ditch emissions automatically.
I despise ELDs and emissions almost equally BUT if I ever had a change of heart I could technically add the ELD in at a later date. However the emissions isn't something I doubt I would ever consider running with.Road Killer and SoDel Thank this.
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