Ignition wiring help

well the toggle I put in. friend of mine told me to wire it with those 2 wires and sure enough it worked. but ya, someone has hacked some stuff in here before, but the ignition has always worked ok before this whole debacle. let me ask this though, if I run my volt meter to that small wire on the firewall solenoid, I should see 12 volt while cranking only right? and if do see 12 volt while cranking...what would be the next step? too dark outside now but I can mess with it a bit tomorrow when I get off work

 

had a chance to look at it now and that small wire off the firewall solenoid is getting 12 volt when cranking the key...so that doesn't seem to be the problem.

 

ok I will check tomorrow. the other day I jumped the small stud to the 12volt stud with a wire and it cranked, but I haven't tried jumping the 2 big lugs yet

 

used a screwdriver to jump both big lugs and it cranks. so if the trucks turns on and that little wire is getting cranking 12v, why would the solenoid be bad? is it because I have to use the toggle to crank it meaning something is wrong with the solenoid?

I can try to swap my new one and see what it does, supposed to be a winter storm coming tonight so we'll see

 

swapped in the starter solenoid and still have to crank it with the toggle on made no difference. this new solenoid required a ground a wire on the other little stud, other than that it seems the same. back to square one

 

ok, so lets back up a sec lol. so there's 2 solenoids were dealing with. 1 accessory solenoid under the dash, and 1 starter solenoid under the hood. the accessory one is the one I had to keep replacing for some odd reason. so, pertaining to the under hood solenoid - the small one wire gets 12 volt while cranking. the right side large stud has constant 12 volt. I jumped a wire from small stud to right side large stud, it cranks. I then jumped the 2 large studs with screwdriver, and it cranks. replaced solenoid anyways and no change.

so inside the truck, I can crank with key and cranks and cranks like it wants to start, but won't. so I wired a toggle switch (momentary) with one side tapped to the BAT wire on the ignition switch harness, the other wire to the ACC wire on the ignition switch harness.. on the toggle switch. in order to turn on the truck, I hold the toggle switch, then crank the key all the way to the right, once it starts I release the toggle switch. this is the only way it turns on. so the toggle basically feeds 12 volts to the ACC wire to crank.

now, the inside solenoid. on that solenoid, the small stud gets 12volts on key on, and so does the bottom large stud. the top large stud is 12volt constant. so that solenoid seems to be working correctly...but the truck still won't turn on unless im holding the toggle switch (which is BAT+ACC)

 

soooo, it all sums up to this question, why do I have to feed my acc wire with the 12 volts while cranking to turn on the truck? from the info I'm gathering in this thread, when turning my key to the crank position, it's not supposed to need 12 volt to ACC...but without it (my toggle), it won't turn on.