Gravdigr,i don't want to be a killjoy but that wasn't all that was wrong.
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I was going to ask if those were your own tarps but your post makes that clear.
If you want them to last longer,learn to put an X shape over the top at the back.
There's slack in the tarp,topcorners are tight but between the corners the sheet will move.
And at 60/65 mph it is moving a lot.
Second,for tarps that matched the load nearly perfectly,they aren't tight enough at the bottom in the lenght way.
If you look around halfway the trailer,where it is on the floor,it is quite loose.
It will not flap around but in heavy rain,water will get under it.
Thirdly,your backflap,much to loose,at the center it is allready bulging.
Which means you didn't tighten it down.
Now don't think i'm putting your work down,for a first time it was done very good(well except for the forgetting about the protection)
Actually,your biggest "mistake" is that you didn't tighten the tarp enough on top.
And i'm not talking with the bungees.
I mean when you open the tarps on the load,you put the back part down,then throw the sides open.
Right?
then you have to pull the tarp forward till there are no more wrinkles in it.
Same for the front tarp(which i can see has many wrinkles still in.)
With tarping,the pre-tarp (a new word in the english language) and pre-bungeeing are more important then putting the bungees.
Please accept that my comments are done in a constructive way and aren't mend to offend.
ps for protection off your tarps my advice would be to get a hold off old tarps which are a 2 feet wider then your trailerfloor.
with watersentive loads they will keep the water off the load and is the cheapest way.
you only need rings on the 4 corners off those(normally you don't use those rings unless you are in a windy place)
There have been other ways off protection suggested here but the disadvantage is that most suck up water.
If you have any questions,feel free to ask,happy to help.
I'm a flatbedder!
Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by gravdigr, Jul 27, 2012.
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I use furniture blankets (moving pads). I bought heavy duty ones off of Ebay, a dozen of them for $100.
CAXPT Thanks this. -
Firniture pads/blankets are great BUT they are bulky and take forever to dry out when they get wet.
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Sad thing is I have rubber edge protectors and a bunch of felt pads in the tarp box from the previous driver. I just felt rushed and new with no tarping procedure in my head.
Daf, thanks for the advice. I know constructive criticism when I hear it. Just from driving I can see where some of my problems are from where the tarps came loose and where they flap in the wind. I pretty much stick to 60mph now that I'm buying my own fuel. Unless I have a tight schedule there is no need to drive faster.
Thanks for the tips on the tarp repair. I have so much to do today at home I won't have time to do much to it. I'll hit it on the inside with duct tape until next weekend. I guess we have a guy in the family with an upulstery and vinyl tarp/awning business so he should have everything I need, he's just closed today.
edit: another problem, once I got the tarps on, I really couldn't get on top of the load to smooth things out. Went to lowes today and picked up a folding ladder. Folded up it's maybe 3.5', then you can unfold and extend it into a step ladder or a 13' extension ladder so I will be able to access the top of those tall loads easier. -
I have started a new thread where the use off protection can be discussed.
I hope you guys will post your opinions in that thread.
It will be a usefull thread for newbee's to refer to.(and easier to find)
http://www.thetruckersreport.com/tr...185153-what-do-you-think-best-protection.htmlLast edited: Jul 29, 2012
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Watch at some places using a ladder calls for FALL PROTECTION training certificate and harness.
DrtyDiesel Thanks this. -
One more observation, in the photo, the open end of your hooks are facing the tarp. That will cause holes from the end of the hook rubbing the tarp. Turn them around, so they face away from the tarp. Get your big Channel Locks out and crimp the end of the hook that goes through the bungee.
CAXPT Thanks this. -
this is where my "qualified trainer badge"would come into play.(im not a trainer..just sayin)Every load that needs to be tarped is going to be different,in some way.if you can secure it,tarp it,and log it in 1.5hrs,great.DONT RUSH!!!.there is no race to the finish line when it comes to this.if you start out with messy un-rolled tarps,your screwed from the start.ALWAYS.roll them up properly after your done.(even if your only going across the street).you will save yourself alot of b.s. by doing this.same goes for your straps.never leave them on the spool,it kills them alot quicker. take your time,dont forget anything.if you walk around the wagon a few hundred times....good.you need the exercise anyway.
i always try to strap over the tarps if possible.use 12'' v-boards edge protectors and protection under tarp if nessesary.the point is...you see the guy going down the road w/his sh=t flappin,bagged ot everywhere(he cant see passed the mess on his wagon).do you want to be that guy?d.o.t. loves that abortion on a roadside.it shows how lazy you are and unwilling to do it right the first time.they will eat you alive.
on those auto/computer parts mfg. machines that are everywhere and filthy/nasty..ive spent 5hrs tarping that crap.wont see me on the side of the road re-doing it. or getting reamed by barney fife.do it right,do it once,be ANAL...
CAXPT Thanks this. -
Putting your bungies as high up the load as you can will reduce air pockets along the sides. Also, bungies on the front of the tarp (under the front flap) should be super tight. I use bungie rope to pull the front as tight as possible. This will also reduce air pockets and flapping.The Challenger and MJ1657 Thank this.
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I was looking at that bungee rope the other day at Joplin 44. Do you like it? Do you just use it for the front and rear of your tarp?
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