So i just bought a 2010 KW T660 the other day, It has a factory 550 ISX. The dealer promised me the truck was in top running order, and when i got home, i tried to do a manual regen and i believe it failed. Looking for some advice. I engaged the manual regen and it ran for about 20 mins max, with no smoke at all out of the stack, but it was billowing out of the joints on the dpf itself. It turned the regen off, after the exhaust temp high light came on. I'm guessing the dpf must be totally plugged. Any thing i can do at this point, besides replace the filter? How hard is it to remove from the truck? Thanks in advance
I'm stuck with it now...Regen problems,and plugged dpf concerns
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by bigrigr, Oct 25, 2013.
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A parked regen should last between 45 minutes and an hour at least. If it's only running for 20 minutes then there's definitely a problem. If it's leaking smoke out of the joints, it's confusing the regeneration system as the pressure differential sensor needs to be able to read pressure between the entrance and exit side of the DPF to know when the filter is plugged and when it's clean enough to shut down the regeneration cycle. That's something they should have seen if they ran a forced regeneration on the truck to check to see if the system was in working order. Definitely something fishy on your truck.
My truck had an issue with the sensor being faulty and it requesting a parked regeneration every 30-100 miles. It confused the sensor into thinking it needed a regeneration when it actually didn't.bigrigr Thanks this. -
Ok, I am having a hard time understanding this... So you just bought this truck and brought it home and did a manual regen, right? The dealer sold it to you in "top" running order, right? If your truck is needing a regen then it will have DPF status warning lights and/or buzzers in the dash telling you that a manual regen is needed. Did you have any of these lights, and if you did, what specifically where they? If there are no lights on the regen will not take place because the engine does not need one. If there where any lights on when you purchased the truck, this should have been dealt with at the time of sale. If the regen did infact start, but then fail, removing the DPF may be a complete waste time because 100 different things could have aborted the regen. You will need to connect Insite to it and run a regen and see what is actually happening. You should also have the DPF joints inspected to confirm if it is exhaust leaking out.
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How far are you away from the dealer who said "It is in Good Running order" I would take it back to them, I then would have them fixing whatever it is. Thanks.
deming807 Thanks this. -
I would try the EGR tune up in this thread first...
http://www.thetruckersreport.com/truckingindustryforum/trucks-eighteen-wheelers/222173-cummins-isx-cm871-technical-discussion.html
Then if I still had problems I would try taking it back to dealer and making them clean it at their expense, (I hope you got that "promise" in writing) it's a pretty extensive (and expensive) process to clean/replace one properly. This is a perfect example of a major engine manufacturer NOT teaching anyone including their own service tech's how to properly maintain an EGR system for the sole purpose of selling outrageously priced parts because we "don't understand". Sorry that's enough ranting, the education in that link is priceless, even if you have to replace the DPF you will still need this info to keep your truck in top shape.deming807 Thanks this. -
Thanx to all who replied, To better clarify what was going on, i brought the truck home and proceeded to do a manual regen just for my own curiosity. (to be clear, i owned a '05 pete before with a cat accert, and none of this dpf/def crap on it, so i had no idea what i was getting into) I believe the truck started the regen, because it did all the customary things i was told about, i.e. high idle etc. Shortly after the regen started, i noticed that it was smoking out of the joints between the scr/dpf sections, but nothing was coming out of the stack, and then i looked on the dash and noticed a high exhaust temp light on. Shortly after i noticed the light, the regen stopped. I assumed that the light was a warning sign that the exhaust temp had gotten to high to contunue the regen. Coming from the background as an auto mechanic, i figured the dpf must be totaly plugged up, forcing the exhaust out the joints , and causing enough backpressure to overheat the exhaust, just like the potato in the exhaust trick. It wasnt until later, and much to my embarassment, that i learned that the light was simply to tell that the exhaust was going to be hot while the regen was progressing, so i wouldnt get out and touch it with my hand, or park over tall grass and start a fire. I removed the dpf thinking that it would be obvious how plugged it was, and was sadly disapointed in my diagnosis. Upon testing and cleaning of the dpf later, i found out that the dpf walked into the shop flowing .6hpa, and left there flowing.3 hpa with just a "blow and go" treatment. Then i realized that this truck must have the capability to tell if a regen is necessary, and that it must have shut down the regen because it didn't need one. Feeling pretty dumb, i put everything back together with new gaskets and proceeded to chalk that one up to my stupidity. I know now to wait for the truck to tell me to do the regen, and if it is working, don't try to fix it till it doesn't.....At least my exhaust doesnt leak anymore....I hope
logtrucker25 Thanks this.
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