Input needed on crazy idea - trailer apartment

Discussion in 'Questions To Truckers From The General Public' started by Ned, Jan 29, 2010.

  1. rockee

    rockee Road Train Member

    1,393
    673
    Apr 17, 2007
    Pacific Northwest
    0
    I think your biggest problem would be finding an RV park to put it in, let alone finding another one six or eight months after finding the first one, etc etc......The walls of most trailers are fairly thin so you would have to take that into consideration when doing all your plumbing, elec, cabinets, framing the whole thing out to do drywall or whatever you want to use. Even doing the work yourself I dont think you could do it for the price you quoted but..............bring it by, I have the space and I'll help you with it, that would be a fun project.

    If it was me and I was considering doing something like that, (which I was, with lapidary and knife making equipment) I would go the shell route and go from there. Or find a horse trailer with living quarters up front and convert it to your standards, the flooring would probably already be stout enough for your equipment if positioned correctly.

    Even though it sounds like a fun thing to do, I think using a 53 foot van would have too many drawbacks to make it a worthwhile project, with parking being the biggest drawback.
     
  2. Truckers Report Jobs

    Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds

    Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.

  3. Tazz

    Tazz Road Train Member

    2,821
    1,133
    Oct 25, 2009
    Lynchburg,Tn
    0
    Parking will be headache number one.Two will be building it to handle traveling with it.

    Standard plumbing like a house is way to rigid for a moving vehicle.Even one that only moves every six months.Do you want to have to redo your septic every time you move?Watch a standard dry van go down the road someday and watch it flex.Slide by your local RV supplier and check on the price of water tanks,water heaters A/C units.A 7,000 budget sounds short.

    Also your gonna need a generator as most rv hook ups(if they let you in) will not have the Amps for you to run shop equipment.That dilemma exists with either set-up but should be taken into consideration.

    But the biggest thing will be parking.You could probably get a power only unit through a brokerage(someone who moves others trailers) for around $1.75-$2.00 range depending on where to where.

    I hate to say it,but while your idea may provide a "project"(and if that is your wish feel free) there are far more reasonable solutions.
     
  4. Ned

    Ned Bobtail Member

    13
    0
    Jan 29, 2010
    Longview, TX
    0
    Yes, quite true. Right now I'm doing some looking into RV parks to see if any would even consider (or have space for) a full 53' trailer. Another poster mentioned the difficulties of construction, which I'll reply to here in a minute...

     
  5. Ned

    Ned Bobtail Member

    13
    0
    Jan 29, 2010
    Longview, TX
    0
    I'm hoping parking can be worked out. I didn't mention that the reason I'm looking into this sort of mobile lifestyle is because a potential employer would be sending me around the US every couple of weeks or months to get trained and eventually start working as an engineer. So it is possible that my employer would actually let me live on the build site. It could go either way- could be "not a chance- liability" or "Yes please, we'd love to have an engineer on site 24/7". (Not sure how I'd feel about being available 24/7 though :-\)

    Anyway, looking at the other issues, assuming that parking isn't a problem-

    Plumbing has been my number one headache in coming up for a viable design for this project. Wiring, lighting, etc won't be too bad, but plumbing is a whole different ball of wax. Right now, my concept is to treat it like an RV, but with a separated tank system. The on-board supply plumbing would be PEX (semi-flexible pipe) combined with RV-style appliances. I'm working on the assumption that fresh water is available at my site, but a potable water tank could be worked out if needed. To keep things as simple as possible, the plumbed stuff would all be located in one area- shower/toilet/bathroom sink all in one room, and the kitchen sink is on the other side of the wall. That way the amount of plumbing is minimized.

    If I can find an RV park to let me in, cool- after the internal plumbing is installed and robust enough for transport, the only thing I need to worry about is having the proper RV-style hoses and fitments for hooking up to their site plumbing.

    Where things get sticky is that if I'm not hooked up to plumbing, this trailer can't just up and move off to a service site when the black/gray water discharge tanks are full. To deal with that, my idea is to have the tanks actually be built onto a small bumper-tow trailer. The little tank trailer is parked under the semi trailer, and plumbed in my the same sanitary hoses that exist for RV plumbing. When full, I just have to disconnect and pull away to an RV service site.

    It's not perfect, but I think it'd work.

    I do plan on having a generator. I've looked into RV and Ambulance-type generators and they might work well, but are still rather expensive. Running the shop equipment is something I haven't figured out completely yet. For the mill/lathe, it's not uncommon for hobby machinists to replace the motor with a 90V DC motor that can run off of rectified wall current through a controller. That might be feasible from a generator or shore power. The welder... I don't know yet. That's a lot of juice. I'd either have to get a really huge generator or use a gas-engine welder. I don't have that figured out yet.

    Could you explain what you mean by 'power only unit'? I get that you mean the service of moving the trailer from location to location, but I don't understand completely.

    I appreciate all the advice I've gotten so far. Thank you for all your contributions everyone! This project is pretty pie-in-the-sky, so I'm thankful that you're willing to bear with me as I try to figure out if it's possible.

     
  6. Freighttrain

    Freighttrain Light Load Member

    166
    72
    Dec 26, 2009
    Gadsden,Al
    0
    I don't see much of a problem really.Just use flexable piping not rigid PVC or iron just like a normal mobile home,Build up the walls with some 2x2x or 2x3s and use sheet or spray in insulation foam RV windows should work on a van.A Travel trailer and a commercial trailer are not that much different.If anything a Dry van is actually built stronger.As for a RV park,why would they have an issue with a Commercial trailer turned RV.Now I could see an issue with the running of the lathe and welding in the park with other people round.That is a lot of noise and other problems.
     
  7. Freighttrain

    Freighttrain Light Load Member

    166
    72
    Dec 26, 2009
    Gadsden,Al
    0
    Also,why not just buy a 2 axle tractor with separate sleeper unit.Close off the sleeper from the cab and house the tanks inside the sleeper box.You could have several hundred gallons of Clean and poo water back there.Access the tanks from the side doors if the box has them.Drive the truck yourself.No CDL is required.You can tag the combo as a RV.If your stinky tank fills up you can just drop the trailer and bobtail to the nearest dump point.
     
  8. Ned

    Ned Bobtail Member

    13
    0
    Jan 29, 2010
    Longview, TX
    0
    Thanks for the feedback, Freighttrain. I am planning on building up the walls, yes. I have seen a few different construction/finish styles of semi walls, and I'm hoping to find one that I can bolt/nail/screw some lumber to for finishing. I'd like to put two-by lumber (probably cut to whatever width I end up needing) up so that I'd have 4" of space between the outside sheeting and the inside paneling that I can fill up with insulation and have space for wiring. I do not anticipate running any plumbing in the walls at all.

    From my discussions at an RV forum, I'm vastly more likely to be accepted at an RV park if my trailer looks like a RV conversion- to that end it'd probably be very helpful to put some RV-like graphics on it, and to not be shy with the windows, doors, and external RV-like features. I have considered making it look either like someone's eccentric retirement project (two of those words are true), or getting some decals that say "Acme Engineering Mobile Staffing Unit" or something like that.
     
  9. Freighttrain

    Freighttrain Light Load Member

    166
    72
    Dec 26, 2009
    Gadsden,Al
    0
    I wouldn't screw the studs to the trailer sides.I would use construction adhesive and just build a box in a box of sorts.Build up the floor a little.You can run all your plumbing under there and build a drop down ceiling.There will be PLENTY of headroom.I have basically the same thing your building but on a much smaller scale in my deuce and a half.It is a communications shelter or a slide in big box.The walls are about 3 inch thick with metal studs and aluminum inside and out riveted to the studs.Has orange foam insulation between them.When it gets cold it GETS COLD same with hot.

    As for windows.You don't have to install a whole bunch of windows.Just enough for you and then you can have some Dummies cut out of Vinyl decals.Give it more of an RV look without the expense of all those windows and doors.
     
  10. Ned

    Ned Bobtail Member

    13
    0
    Jan 29, 2010
    Longview, TX
    0
    Good info, thanks. Do you have any pics or details of your deuce and a half? Seems like an interesting and similar project. I must admit that I don't know what the floor construction of a van trailer is like. The ones I have seen have been very sturdy wood. At some point I'll need to put a pipe through it somewhere- what will I be going through? Is it just wood as long as I avoid the frame rails? I presume that there's an aluminum or plastic sheet layer also, right? My first thought was just to run all my drainage PEX down through the semi's floor and keep it all under there as shallow as possible. Is that reasonable?

    My plan for flooring was just to lay some plywood down and carpet it in the living area. Putting down some joists to give clearance for plumbing isn't out of the question, though, if I need to. Especially if it's just the bathroom.

     
  11. Sad_Panda

    Sad_Panda Road Train Member

    1,056
    312
    Dec 2, 2006
    0
    Why not get a older Great Dane reefer trailer with a blown TK unit?
     
  • Truckers Report Jobs

    Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds

    Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.