Installed a new 39 Mt starter today ... no start yet

2000 Volvo vnl N14 - i replaced my 42 mt Delco today for a 39 mt Delco; it has the magnetic switch (relay) [overload protection deal] ...

The old one wouldn’t start from time to time, ended up not starting at all. So I tested the signal wire to the solenoid before condemning the old one, and it tested 12v during the key switch. And only one click from the starter was the symptom.

Well I hooked the new starter up exactly like the old one. Took pictures, zip tied the negative and positive separate, to help with this part.

Well jolly me went to go start the truck. Not only did I not get a clicking sound/ no start/ I get an ABS code. Go me!

So I take the signal wire off from the new starter, cut the eyelet off because I suspected I damaged the crimp in the instal; test it during key switch and I get no voltage at all now... come on

This starter DOES have the magnetic relay and my old one didn’t... so maybe the signal wire to the solenoid needs to go up on that relay or something? But... still doesn’t really explain why I got not voltage during the key switch after the switch.

I respect the experienced hands on here that take the time to reach out to us “first timers”... any ideas? Any experience had that could be applied here? ... thanks, in advance - this is my first time changing the starter myself, I got the bruise from the 42mt and the frame connecting with my finger in between the two to prove it

 

I really wish I could... that was my idea; trace the trigger wire and re-wire it. But it doesn’t seem to go to my fire wall, it just goes behind the motor and... who knows at this point ... I’m pretty thin so I got up in between my transmission so I can look right behind the motor and I’m just not tracing it...

I followed the wires from the fire wall (passenger side), but that harness go straight back to the trans, abs module, fuel tanks etc...

At this point I’m thinking I undid a splice while working the wires today. I saw duct tape, over electric tape about 18 inches back on the signal wire... then I ran out of daylight after that

The plan tomorrow is to start there, tear back the electric tape and see if there’s a crimp there, and see if it’s disconnected... because just this morning before taking off the old starter I had power to the signal wire

Batteries are Napa brand 1.5 years old, testing 12.7V on each one

 

I use the power probe because it hooks straight to the battery posts for power and ground, that way I know I have a good ground. It picks up any voltage, it can sense a good ground, and it can send 12v power.

When I sent 12v power straight to the new starter it set off the internal circuit breaker in the power probe..

 

Ooooo, that might explain why I have no signal now at the signal wire. Because maybe the initial start I tried, with the signal hooked up in the wrong spot, caused the fuse to blow. Now with the fuse blown it won’t allow voltage to flow through ... ??

I’m testing my fuse ASAP tomorrow

 

Is the amperage that important at the signal wire? Seems like the signal wire just activates the solenoid with basic voltage, then once activated it requires the major amperage/ voltage from the 2 awg cables , but I don’t know for sure.

That’s what my dad keeps saying, he thinks it’s the batteries... but I really don’t think so

The wire has no corrosion where I clipped it, and I very rarely run the snow struck areas in the snow seasons