INSTALLING A POWER INVERTER (Pictures)

how much - just a front-end idea as I may find work and what is the difference between UT750UL / PV1250FC / APS1250

dont put a lot into pricing as I do not have work yet

MNdriver: what is "on" ~ you mean pm?....will when I get closer to actually being able to do something

 

Send me a on some time.

 

The guys saying they do not have it fused at the battery scares the heck out of me!
If that size of wire shorted to the truck it would burn the truck to the ground!...

I use these with 4 AWG wire at the battery for my inverter and CB,

http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-EWFH-...574112&sr=1-1&keywords=single+anl+fuse+holder

 

how do you install it

 

http://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Amplifier-Inline-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B009ZEJKAI

perfect fuse for an inline inverter. you can get them larger too. just search. this one is an 80 amp.

the one here http://www.amazon.com/CB100-Amplifi...Car+Audio+Stereo+100+Amp+Circuit+Breaker+Fuse and this one is a 100 amp.

 

IMO Xantrex is the only inverter to concider PURE sine wave to SAFELY run all your sensative/medical electronics. And if your pockets are deep enough they make them with a built in battery charger/shore power. Starting to sound like a cheap APU ain't it? You can even "piggy-back them to make 220 if you need to.

 

I have always used good quality welding cable, keeping my run as short as possible.Grommets lining any holes made, and a blade fuse attached to one end of positive cable, and other end to battery post under the nut.They slide in to place. The blade fuses are made with soft metal, so they can take road shock. A good rule of thumb is one amp/10 watts of inverter power. I use a 150 amp blade fuse(they are not real expensive) with my 1500 watt inverter. Do not trust the onboard fuse protection the inverters have. That does not protect your battery between it and the battery, a lot of things can happen, you need something right next to the battery. Trucks have burned to the ground due to amateur installations. Make sure there is no slack in your cables that can bounce around and rub through the insulation. Always allow ample air space for the heat to dissipate from the inverter. I used rubber bushings with the mounting bolts to dampen the road shock to the inverter. On one truck I even built a wire cage around the inverter mounted under the bunk so nothing such as cloths would get thrown on top of it.True sine wave inverters have come down in price over the years, and if your going to be running any kind of delicate equipment( Laptop, battery charger for your drill, expensive TV/stereo gear) you may consider the purchase of one. Been off the road for 6 years so do not have any pics for you of my installations, but hope this helps.

 

The blade fuses do not need the plastic enclosure, get the larger size fuse( size not amperage rating) and they will slip under the nut on the battery post. Yes trucks do burn up from careless installations. See my last post. Thanks, skeet.

 

There are a few things of note in this thread that are incorrect and quite dangerous.

1) High amperage connections should always be made mechanically via crimping or screw-down terminals, NOT with solder. Filling a lug with solder and jamming cold wire into it is the perfect recipe for a cold solder joint. This is not good.

2) Fusing is requisite. To think otherwise is foolish and will have hearty consequences. "Fusing in parallel" was suggested at one point and is ill-advised.

3) Using appropriately sized wire is also very important. Use this guide: http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...2-wire-gauge-ampacity-table-wiringdiagram.jpg. Protecting the wire from chafing and damage should also be an important consideration.

 

I need to read this thoroughly but I have had issues with soldered connections breaking the wire at the fitting