Inverter questions

Not sure why you'd want to turn it off. if nothing is drawing power from it, it should shut off automatically. Any extension cord that works and supports what you want to power should be fine. Just be aware of not over-taxing the inverter too much of the time. Err on the side of caution. Does this look like a factory or professional install? Or does it look like a "professional stereo installer/trucker" hooked it up with what he could find at the 7-11? An improperly installed/wired inverter can be a disaster waiting to happen.

Big wire, good
semi big wire, maybe ok
small wire, dangerous

 

If the APU is programmed correctly it should start when the voltage drops below a certain threshold (assuming you have not taken the APU out of auto mode with a switch you may or may not have)

 

For our inverter in my dads tractor we used a small 10ft chord. Was like 12/3 wire I believe. Better to have a larger chord than one too small. We used it to run a laptop but it could power a TV and DVD player if needed. Also I wouldn't worry about shutting the inverter off if you have an apu it'll keep your batteries charged while you sleep should anyway. You should be alright with the setup if you use a large short extension chord. And your inverter should have an auto shutoff and thermal overload protection should it get too hot. That is the only problem with our inverter it had to be mounted under his bed and naturally that's where all his crap goes so airflow can be an issue always make sure when your using the inverter that it can get adequate airflow to cool. Don't want to have a fire escape doors have seem to become non existent in sleepers now days guess they're hoping we die in a fire

 

Just remember, in all cases, you should use the shortest possible, within reason. Don't use a 25 foot cord, if a 5 foot cord will do. But don't get crazy about it, and have a shorter cord stretched to it's limits either.

When you think about running AC powered devices in an inverter, think in watts or amps, instead of volts. If you have a TV that is newer, it might draw as little as 30 or 40 watts. Bigger ones draw more, but the newer TVs are good, especially LCD Tvs. Some older TVs might draw 80 watts when running, but can draw a very heavy amount for a few seconds, like 300 watts or so. This "SPIKE" is just the TV getting everything going, and settles down after a few seconds. If you are using an older TV, start it before you start anything else, and let it get going, to where it is drawing less power, THEN turn on other stuff, like DVD players.

Chargers for cell phones and Laptops do not draw too much, but a charger for a laptop will draw a lot more while charging the laptop's battery, then it does to maintain a fully charged batter in the laptop.

Here's a breakdown in how power can be described in 3 different ways:
AMPS
VOLTS
WATTS
Just remember that VOLTS X AMPS = WATTS.
If you have a 50 watt device runni ng in your house, on 110 VOLTS, it will be drawing AROUND Half an AMP (110 VOLTS X 0.5 = 55 WATTS)
If you take that same exact device, and plug it into your inverter, it will be pulling 50 WATTS from your inverter. Same as it does in your house.
BUT the inverter has to draw 50 WATTS from your batteries, to make the power. Since the truck's Electric is 12 VOLTS, instead of 110, The inverter will draw AROUND 4.25 AMPS. (12 VOLTS X 4.25 = 51 Watts). This is no big deal, as long as you have a big enough fuse in the wires feeding the inverter. If you draw 200 WATTS through the inverter, that would require ABOUT 17 AMPS. If you are going to run heavy stuff, like a Microwave Oven or a Hair Dryer, the power for the inverter should come directly from the batteries, with a big enough fuse to supply the power.

In all the above statements, I use the words AROUND and ABOUT, because the inverter does not convert 100% of wha t it draws. The act of converting the power might draw a couple WATTS, or even more.

Also be warned, that some of the WATTS listed on the inverters sold in truck stops are a joke. I once ran a test of 300 watts through an inverter that said it was good for 500 WATTS continuous/750 WATTS surge. It shut off. The actual WATTS it could put out was about 200 continuous, and only a 225 Watt surge. Don't get too many things you expect to power with an inverter, unless you know for sure it can handle the demand.

 

As our inverter is behind the drivers seat and everything we use it for ( daily) is on the top bunk, I use a 10 ft heavy duty outdoor extention cord. Yes about 3ft is coiled up, but that was the best fit.

I use a power strip IF I am cooking with the crockpot, but will just unplug the refer if just useing the microwave or toaster. It's suposed to be at 2000 watt inverter, but I've had the reset pop when useing the micro on a low setting ( suposedly 700watts) and the toaster ( 750 watts).

Our APU has an on/off for the heat,air and fan, it also has another "on/off" button which is for the auto. Both have green lights, meaning they are on. Even if we are not useing the heat/air we make sure that second button for the auto is on.

 

i wouldn't worry about running everyday accessories. they don't draw very much power. your laptop draws the most when it's on and the batteries are dead. turn laptop off and you cut power down considerably while it's charging. and like the above mentioned. once it's fully charged. tv running a dvd will probably be the highest consumption you'll encounter. along with your game console.

all i have is a printer and laptop. my laptop also does my tv. via usb tuner. and plays my movies.

your biggest power drains come from anything with heat. like microwave or slow cooker. or what not. you'll probably need the truck running as those will probably kill your batteries before you get your meal cooked.

there are 12V cookers. i don't own any so i can't tell you how well they work or there power consumption.