If its not a nicked plunger I’m wondering if having full pressure, which i didn't before, damaged an already disintegrated rubber inside the rear valve? I’m going to replace that assembly next. It’s also original. Was going to do all the valves but this one is pricey.
Issues after brake valve replacement
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by JoeyJunk, Dec 21, 2021.
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When I replaced my brake valve. Because the brake light stayed on. The problem was the plunger hanging up in passage. I cleaned the plunger. About 3 months later problem returned.
Mechanic at dealer said the plunger has a special coating to prevent corrosion, when I sanded and cleaned it. I removed that coating and the plunger corroded.
I put a new one it. Problem solved.
Mechanic also said putting any fluid or lube on the plunger will collect dust and dirt causing the same problem.JoeyJunk, Rideandrepair and BoxCarKidd Thank this. -
Thanks to everyone who replied. It helps in learning this truck and these systems. Didn’t really care as a company driver and I wish had.Rideandrepair and xsetra Thank this. -
Is the rod length adjustable on the pedal? On the business class cabs they are. Rod may be a hair to long allowing the valve to be open and flow at it’s minimum crack pressure without activating the lights.
JoeyJunk and Rideandrepair Thank this. -
My 99 fld120. The plunger that goes thru the firewall is a solid rod no adjustment.
Rideandrepair Thanks this. -
Rideandrepair and Oxbow Thank this.
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Update: I installed a new plunger and housing. I may have dinged the other one up when I dropped it 3 times, making it stick and thus having slight brake application. I also adjusted the rod just in case. All seems to be fine now. Thanks again for all help and suggestions.
Last edited: Jan 4, 2022
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