ISX 475: Backfire from intake between shifts

Vision,have you read the paper posted by member "Rawze" about EGR and how to avoid problems with it?

 

You did get his point that the first thing before you change things in the ECM,you should have a perfectly clean EGR and DPF?
(if yours has a DPF as i have not seen what year it is)

 

I was told by someone very, very good with the ISX and the N14, that cumins addressed the well known premature wear of the N14 bottom end problem on the ISX, extending the life of it. Better oil flow etc. He said that if the bottom end of the N14 was done at 600k intervals, the rest of the engine would typically last upwards of 1.5 to 1.8 million miles without a rebuild. He claimed it was the bottom end that caused the accelerated sleeve wear, and the further past 600k, the higher risk of spinning a bearing when the engine was cold, especially if you rev it up suddenly with no load. He then went on to say that the ISX was identical in nature, but that the bottom end lasted an additional 200-250k before these risks, depending on how much more soot from the EGR there was in the oil regularly. His final opinion is that cummins improved the bottom end and other areas of the motor to make up for the extra wear that soot would cause because of EGR.

I cannot see any flaw in what he said, so I guess the question is weather or not you have a bypass system to remove soot from your oil, or perhaps have EGR disabled for most of your 850k miles, or not. If not, then the bottom end at that mileage would be a wise choice.

Just don't rev it up fast, or high when its really cold in the meantime.

 

Hey brother


I am sure this is an older thread but my 2005 isx is doing the same thing, so I unplugged the egr and it all stopped. So I installed a new egr valve and checked the tubes d tubes and they were clean, drove around 200 miles and it started doing it again but not as bad. any ideal?

 

Tubes can be somewhat clean, but the pipe they tread into is plugged over. That needs to be cleaned as well. At least stick a pick or small screwdriver through the fitting the tube threads onto to make sure it is clear. Loose or corroded connectors at the EGR valve can cause anything, unplug the two connectors and check. Clean the intake pressure sensor, (boost sensor). Exhaust back pressure sensor really can't be checked, but only replaced. Try a new one, but keep your old one for a spare. Same thing with the EGR differential pressure sensor.

 

Thank you guys for advice

 

Thanks, I ran it for two weeks unplugged and it did great no more sound and the fuel mileage improved, but then it started loosing power so I plugged it back in for a few miles and it instantly started fartin through the exhaust again so I unplugged it until I got home and put the new egr valve on. Ill check some more I did look at the inlets going to the tubes and they were clean. Thanks