Kenworth Electrical Issues Common?

The older non-Unibilt 379's were tight on legroom... but now you can move the seat back from the factory mounts about another 8"... you'd have to be 7' plus to be cramped like that! My kid has his moved back with some aftermarket seat mounting deal... I can't reach the pedals with it all the way back.

Some Pete and KW wiring issues come from leaky windshields... they will allow water to flow onto the fusebox area. if your windshields are tight that won't happen.

 

Well as it were, the last W9 I had was plagued by electrical issues, but they were the previous owners fault, not kenworth.

He had a thing for making electrical connections with nothing but masking tape.

 

That's because he went to I.T.D.E.C.


Idiot Truck Driver Electrical College....It seem most company drivers and some O/O's went to that particular school.

 

you have no idea how much solder and heat shrink is now in that truck. I probably spent 200.00 on heat shrink alone.

 

Yes its ashame that people will cut and splice anywhere ..So much easier to do it and do it right from the start

 

When I put my chicken lights on the truck I built a harness on the #### thing, and everything was solderd, heat shrinked, and I painted the joints with dialectric grease before I heat shrinked em.

I always had people tell me "Man must be a lot of work keeping all those lights going like that" nope, almost never had issues.

 

I did the same thing on mine...Never had a single light problem.

 

It is the whole take some time to do a job right the first time, or constantly do it over thing that for some reason so many folks can figure out.

I have seen some screwy things like that. Open butt splices tend to go to pot really fast. I always would wrap them in electrical tape if I didnt have the time to solder, and they would hold up well that way. But eventually the water and salt and chemical deicer would work its way in.

 

that chemical is nasty stuff--you can almost hear it eating away at everything