Hi Guys.
I bought a 92 Freightshaker Cabover with a L10 Cummins in it. It's in GREAT shape. Very clean all over. Trying to get it to start.
I've drained the tanks.
Put 25 fresh gallons of fresh fuel in, along with some diesel injector cleaner.
Changed the canister fuel filter (filled with fresh diesel).
Pulled the return line off, and pumped the old fuel out of the lines until new fuel was coming out, and reattached it to the tank. Which I assume that means that the pump is pumping, because it was flowing pretty good, while I was turning it over with the starter.
It will crank on ether, but obviously I don't want to keep spraying it.
I am just about to start cracking lines and see if fuel is going into the head.
ANY SUGGESTIONS?
Thank you in advance!
L10 no start
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Grant Industrial Trans, Aug 12, 2019.
Page 1 of 2
-
-
Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds
Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.
-
Not sure what fuel system you have on your 92. Doubt it is mechanical. Pace system? Celect? Electronic injectors. Some folks might answer if you post pictures and engine serial #.
Grant Industrial Trans Thanks this. -
Trucker Kev Paid Tourist Road Train Member
that was at little baby Cummins from the early 90s?
they were like the baby kitty cats the kittens the 3176 -
I'll have to figure out how to post pics...
It's an L10-310E
Engine #34656026 -
Not sure what the canister on the frame is. It looks to be a water separator, but it's got some kind of manifold on it, with a line running directly into the block on the pass side of the motor, near the front with a spigot cut-off on it (finger point). -
Disconnect wire to shutoff solenoid and turn key to run and touch wire to terminal, should see it spark and hear a click
BoxCarKidd and Grant Industrial Trans Thank this. -
It's electronic L10. Does it have an operational check engine light?
Grant Industrial Trans and BoxCarKidd Thank this. -
I have heard of something like an L10 before.
This is an L10 M11 Hybrid, note the two data tags. It is mechanical with a variable and constant speed governor. Also has step timing.
Yours is the last version of this engine. Seems to me not to be a lot of information around on them as not very many were made. It has the same fuel system as some of the M11 and N14's. Trouble shooting is the same but sensor and fuse locations can be in different places. I have even swapped test ECM's between some of them. So do not limit your your search to the L10. Search block at the top right. Answer spsauerland's question.
There was also a guy on you tube, Heavy Duty Equipment N14, or something like that. You can spend some time on those videos and testing. I am not advertising or promoting but he did help me through a problem once.
Power and ground to the ECM is the first thing we are looking for. Then fuel.Grant Industrial Trans and spsauerland Thank this. -
The fuel pump needs to make 25 psi before the engine will start. Take the reading on the side of the pump. It's a male quick connect fitting covered with a rubber cap. Shown in the first two photos.
Grant Industrial Trans Thanks this. -
Thanks everybody!
I couldn't find my multimeter (typical), so my new one arrived in the mail yesterday. I'm getting 8.80V at the solenoid terminal, whether the key is on, or not. It does click when disconnected and reconnected at the solenoid, but only faintly.
One thing that I think may have some bearing at this point, is that when I connect the batteries, there is a faint buzzer going off in the cab. When I turn the key on, there is another much louder buzzer going off. It is distinctly two buzzers with two different tones.
The two lights that come on with the key are the oil pressure light and the low air light.
I never noticed it--until now-now that I'm paying attention (hard to see in the sun), but when I turn the key off, the loud buzzer quits, the quiet buzzer stays on, and the oil and air lights get really dim, but are still lit.
When I first brought it home, and put fresh batteries in it, there were two battery shut-off switches under the box. One was smoking when turning the motor over, so I bypassed both of them directly to the batteries. I don't think that would have any bearing, but at this point, who knows. The truck was originally set up as a tanker rig...
Could a bad ECM throw voltage to the truck all the time? Could it be a bad IGN switch?
Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds
Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.
Page 1 of 2