Leaky Dash Tractor valve?

The valve is metal? Not white or black plastic?

 

They have that 10lb torque for the fittings due to the taper made into pipe thread fittings to avoid cracking the valve boss. At this point I would lightly tape threads (2 wraps) then press tape into threads between fingers. Then install them snug, but don't crank on them. The tape acts as a lubricant and can fool you on how tight the fitting is and you can pop the boss on the valve.

 

You may want to keep your old valve. It is still serviceable with a kit.

 

Well, some people don't like a bunch of stuff around or don't have room for it. I like to save money when possible. It's the same as making more.

 

Here's a thought...

When I first started back driving a couple years ago, the company I applied at didn't really have any trucks available, sooooo.... they exhumed the body of an old 9200 and sent it off to Dr. Frankenstein to be revived. They got its' heart beating again, but it leaked more oil than the Exxon Valdez and the air compressor was doing all it could do to keep the brakes released (with all the air leaks).

Now I've never seen a steam powered locomotive in person before, but I'm pretty sure all the air leaks that truck had, probably closely resembled the sound of one running at full tilt. Thing is though, after driving it a while, a lot of the leaks cured themselves. The o-rings and stuff probably got a little crusty while the truck was sitting and just needed to be used a little before they sealed up again.

If yours has been sitting a while, it might do the same.

 

Hi people,

I have been having similar issues as what the OP posted. When I push tractor brakes and drive around the truck I hear a low hissing sound from the dashboard. I tried twisting the yellow valve and it did not go away however, when you drive its more then when it is parked.

Tomorrow I will be soaping the air system to see if I could find it. Last week I got the foot valve replace because the brakes were not working fine.

I remember, once in a volvo my mechanic replaces the Quick Release Valve and the problem went away. This time I want to try myself and see if it is Quick Release Value or the valve in the dashboard...would I be able to replace myself? I am good with my hands and work on cars and stuff. What are the precautions I have to take especially with the fittings?

Please let me know, thank you.