Looking at a 99 emissions era Pre EGR D12

Define (Ludicrous)

 

Got my 03 DDEC 4 in my FLD and LOVE it! Have the following:
Programming by “Leon” (do a search) with a 3 position switch. 500, 550, 600hp.
5519 injectors
Full tilt manifold
Borg Warner 702 turbo
Donaldson flow thru muffler
Eaton easy shift 2150 clutch
Straight 10 w/ 370 rears

don’t b afraid to cruise down the road at 1500+ rpms. Detroits love the higher rpms. DO NOT lug it down low! Mine climbs like a cat from hell and sounds great with the weed burner.
If you upgrade, an EGT gauge is a MUST HAVE! Get one and make you first 2 upgrades 1) programming and 2) 702 turbo. Can b done for under $2k
Engine brakes are a “little” weaker than other makes, but not bad. Trick is to get a decent old school mechanic that can set em right. I run overhead on mine every 150k.
Popped head gasket on her at 870k or so, and figured at $2k to replace, I just went ahead and inframed for about $19k. That was in 2014. I only do about 80-100k per year.
Good thing bout these motors is the replacement costs. New turbo at Summit racing? $875. Bought mine there at their store on I-76 in Ohio and took me about an hour to put it on.

 

I assume Volvo d12? I have seen few with 2 mil miles. Very reliable engine, but low on power. Nobody likes it in the hills

 

As for the D 12, there’s a tube that comes up over the top of the valve cover. Where the pipe meets the tube, put a plug in there. That prevents the egr gasses from going back into ur motor and the ecm won’t know the difference.
This does two things, the first is it prevents all that city crappy air from going back into your motor, the next is your motor runs a lot cleaner and cooler. Your EGR‘s will still open and close, but without any of the exhaust gas is going across them they will stay cleaner and they will also last longer. That’s the main problem with the Volvo EGR valves, They get dirty and then you have to replace them.