Have you been on a dyno? My truck had 45 more horse running in direct vs OD. Show me math that the Hp at the wheels drops.
Tire rpm is simply your engine rpm*trans ratio*rear ratio
A/B/C=D
a,b,and c can be whatever you want as long as they = d
for 1400 rpm (A)
1400/.73 (overdrive)/3.55=540 tire rpm
1400/1.00 (direct)/ 2.64=530 tire rpm
As you see, rpm is close. the big difference is startability, which i mentioned. Yes you would need to use low as 1st when real heavy and on a hill, but you could still make it in 1st most of the time.
Show me any math that suggest you loose HP by running with a lower number rear.
Dyno results don't lie. technically you should be able to dyno in any gear, but they choose dirrect to get the most power to the wheels. I asked them to dyno in top gear on my 13 and in dirrect. I had 45 more hp in dirrect. The trans is a huge loss.
Melton and mavrick have been running 2.64 for years and are buying more trucks with that spec. If any one needs startability, its flatbedders, and they feel that ratio is ok. Most of there drivers dont even know, so as far as driving, if speced with a direct trans they run just fine. With an od 13, then you would not use the top 2 gears normaly
looking to change my axle ratio
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by rank, May 30, 2014.
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And flatbedders need "startability"? Really? Whats the difference between a flatbed and freight hauler as far as that goes? 80k lbs or under, is 80k lbs or under, the engine knows no difference. Now do the same thing at @100k lbs or more, starting on a 2 lane road's red light, uphill, and then you will see what "startability" really means.
I would hazard a guess their drivers dont know, because their average experience is under 2 or 3yrs, if that, and they have driven nothing else.
It's time to give up, especially when you start questioning folks who obviously have more experience in these things than yourself. Dyno time? I have personally had loads of it over the years, in different trucks, as I am sure the person you questioned has also.
As you MAY learn over the years, the dyno is only half the story. Real world driving, in different terrain with different weights, will tell a more truthful tale. Chasing numbers to brag about to the nearest other fleet driver is fine, until someone with lower HP goes flying by you up a long grade. It happens to me every time I run with a certain guy we have here, with @120HP less than I have. Gearing.....
Martinrbrtwbstr Thanks this. -
wore out Thanks this.
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FYI, what you say about dynos used to be true. The one at Pittsburgh power has hydraulic arm that hooks into the fith wheel. Varring settings on resistance in the rollers and weight on the 5th you can simulate power to the wheels in much more realistic situations. (including but not limited to, startability, and hp in direct.)
As I said before, if any of you can show me math why i'm wrong, i'd like to see it. Real world experience doesn't count if you've never driven a 2.64 rear truck. It also doesnt count if anything else is different when comparing to a different ratio. (ie a pete cat with 3.55 vs a FL detroit 2.64) Math never lies, show me the math and if its correct, i'll change my mind.rockyroad74 Thanks this. -
Revolutions per mile is a tire spec that does affect gearing and speed, although not a ton. A larger tire will have less startability and higher top speed, just like being in a higher gear or a lower rear end number. (I say number as to not confuse with a lower geared rear which would be a higher number.)
But, since this discussion has just become about rear end, i left tire specs out of the calculation for now. The eaton rear calculator shows all this (posted link before)
Now, a 22.5 tire will have a lower rr then a 24.5 tire. So, if he is gonna switch the rear, id go for a spec that would work with 22.5 tires so he can get the best option when he eventually replaces tires. -
2.64 gears, Maverick trucks, Pittsburgh power, show me the math. This all reminds me of a certain infomercial that runs on Sirius/xm weekends from 3-6.
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The Kevin Rutherford lemmings are out in full force today!
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In a normal od setup
.78 trans ratio DECREASES TORQUE, 3.55 rear ADD A LOT of TORQUE back
we need to add more torque back because we lost more by using OD on the trans
In a direct set up
1.00 trans ratio TORQUE REMAINS SAME, 2.64 rear ADDS SOME TORQUE BACK
We don't loose torque through gearing in the trans and thus need to add less back in the end.
This is only a slight disadvantage for startability, because 1st gear is not as low.
If all you care about is tourqe, stay in first gear all day.
In the first od example, why would you take torque away just to add it back? Doesn't make much sense, but its that way we've been doing it for years. You can accomplish the same thing by changing the rear. -
Why bother.
It used to be "text book genius'", but Google has taken that role now, along with XM, I guess.
Like I said, explain, in your mathematic genius, why a truck with less HP outpulls me on every hill, regardless of what gear I am in......
Never mind, you're right, everyone else is wrong.
Martin -
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