12 Guage Customs air ride setup for the front axle, and if you want it to ride low, you'll have to remount every suspension mount higher on the frame. If you just want to drop it at a show, dump the air - you just can't drive it around like that.
lowering a w900
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by 24u2nv, Aug 1, 2015.
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mine in the pic is factory front air ride, lowered 1.5", on a car-hauler front axle beam (2" drop) and 22.5LP rubber
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a little wisp of smoke out of the breather is normal... a substantial amount of steam would be a problem if it persists after the engine is good and warm. Some of these meatheads are trying to scare you... get an oil sample done thru Horizon or Polaris labs... no Speedco BS!
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I pulled the block that is under the leaf springs on the front axle and lowered the leveling rod on the rear bags to lower the entire truck evenly it came down just shy of 3 inches mine is on the right you can see the obvious difference in ride height next to my other truck both have 18"bumpers
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Why? The front blocks don't matter if there or not but the ride height being out of spec you're putting everything in a bind.
little cat 500, lester and Cottonmouth85 Thank this. -
You pull the blocks that sit below the leaf springs that will lower the truck not the ones above the leaf springs nothings out of wack of you lower the truck evenly
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Ok. I don't understand how it's not changing the travel geometry of your suspension and therefore driveline angles but if you say so I will take your word for it. On your truck though not mine.
lester Thanks this. -
Lowering the truck evenly still changes your driveline geometry. Your steady bearing goes up and down with the truck.
Lower truck and it goes outta wack.
People don't understand how critical everything is with driveline angles. Everything has to be just right or it will vibrate.little cat 500 Thanks this. -
Your engine/trans are still sitting in the same spot for all intent and purposes. Changing your leveling valve like that will have your driveline angles all out of whack. Unless of course you raised your engine/trans 3" to offset lowering your rear end, which basically raises your ujoint on the front rear end 3". I would suggest having your angles checked before you put too many miles on this set up. Take it from a guy who spent almost $12k back in 2013 to fix the problems caused by a lowered truck that wasn't done correctly.
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Between my dad and I we got 1.1 million miles on her rolling like this no issues yet
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