Lug Nuts

Hi rank, I remember years ago, we had lug wrenches in the truck, and with the Dayton style wheels, we were expected to check the lugs every couple days. Sometimes, I'd get an 1/8th of a turn out of them.

 

[QUOTE="semi" retired;4458996]Hi rank, I remember years ago, we had lug wrenches in the truck, and with the Dayton style wheels, we were expected to check the lugs every couple days. Sometimes, I'd get an 1/8th of a turn out of them.[/QUOTE]

This is so true about back then. A trucking company out here, which is still in business these days had such (maybe still does, tire repair tools, i do not know) and when I went there for a job interview, I did ask about break down pay, road service, etc. The interviewer told me they fix their own flats.

I said, and I remember this, "may I please have my resume` back? I wish not to work on a truck, outside of say changing a light bulb".

Then I walked out.

That'll be the day that I change a tire. Heck, I even call out the AAA when my car has a flat, this is why we have road service, period!

 

2"drive 2ft Breaker Bar&4-5 ft pipe on Dayton Wheels back in the day....stand on that bad boy...get 1/2 turn Everyday.....lmao

With most of todays solid wheels..if done correctly on install Never had a problem....I've been told by more n a couple tire guys...the retorque notes on shop sales slips....is a lawyer cya liability thing...imagine that....But for the record I ck torque on Everything every PM....which is every 10k....but we're ol skool&old habits die hard I'm told....

 

And I can sit here and truly appreciate some of YOU old school guys! My "old school" is only 26 years, compared to your 40. When I started out, pretty much I was forbidden to do anything to a truck, other than say replace a light bulb. Here I see the liability issues of lug nut torquing, as you said you had to stand on the lug wrench. This is good, if YOU are at least 200 pounds worth of person. What do we lighter, svelte, slim, trim model types do? (LOL, if only I were slim, trim, and a model type..)

but I am a light weight, maybe perhaps than some of you other guys. My g/f says is I were to be in a magazine centerfold, the staple would split me in 2!...

 

A tire shop won't single it out because they want to sell you a tire to put on it. If you are loaded, that tire shop represents the nearest safe location to make the repairs, so it would be a violation to leave with it singled out. If you are empty, you are not exceeding the weight limit of that single tire, and therefore are NOT in violation of ANY regulations. Driving a truck with a singled out tire either empty or under a load light enough so as not to exceed the weight rating of that singled out tire is no more or less "dangerous" than running super singles. You cannot be placed OOS for running a singled out tire as long as you are either 1) within the manufacturer's weight limits for the remaining tire, or 2) in compliance with § 396.7(b). If you are fully loaded and blew the tire 20 miles ago, and have already driven past 6 different tire shops, then you are NOT in compliance with § 396.7(b)...which says you may proceed to the NEAREST SAFE PLACE to have the repairs made. There have been no changes made to that rule.

 

Hi G, actually, that worked on the Dayton style, but you'd be hard pressed to get Budd wheel nuts off without an impact. The torque on a Dayton style lug nut was a lot less than a Budd wheel nut. Many times, when I worked for the asphalt company, the mechanic wasn't there, so you were expected to change your own tires. I learned early on, not to take the nut off completely, as I've seen the lugs (part that clamps the rim) go flying across the shop. You'd loosen the nuts, and bang on the lug to break them loose. I've also changed my own tires with tubeless, and used starting fluid and a match to seal the bead. KABOOM.

 

I have my own torque wrench for that sort of thing, but I work in a shop... I've yet to see a driver carry a 3/4" or 1" drive torque wrench on the truck with them.. have you priced a good one?

1-5/16" or 33mm

You're getting a bit carried away. Go to Costco sometime. For something like $100 - $120, they have some tool sets which should be more than adequate for what you'll need. The company's not going to want you getting too deeply involved in trying to repair things yourself - especially if that vehicle's still under warranty. Let's be real... you'd be replacing perhaps mud flaps and lights once in a while, and perhaps the occasional trailer air supply or emergency line.. how much more involved are you expecting to get than that, driving a fleet truck?

 

[QUOTE="semi" retired;4459263].... used starting fluid and a match to seal the bead. KABOOM.[/QUOTE]
Did that once. I was digging my toll money out as I was coming up to toll booth in Alex Bay, NY. Wasn't paying enough attention and the rear trailer rim clipped the curb. Brand spanking new trailer too. It creased that rim into a triangle. So I limped back to the yard (empty) and used a sledge hammer and a hydraulic porta pack ram to get it somewhat round again. A locking air chuck, shot of ether and a bbq lighter on a long stick and I was in business. It has the same rim today.

 

Lol G Anthony I'm not all that big either..but it is or was about weight...its bout torque which is why I said I put a 5"pipe over the 3' 2" drive breaker bar....stand on the end of the pipe....maybe you wood need a 7' pipe...