M11 vs c-12

If you want to be in the game against 12.7 detroit, c-13, or maxxforce 13, then take c-12 to be its match on gliders.

 

I would get the M-11. Great series of engines. As stated parts cheap and plentiful. Any cat smaller than the 3306 to 3406,3406E,C-15,C-16 block did not have the best durability.

 

Just not enough power, you will overwork the motor causing poor fuel mileage and premature wear.

 

It blew a head gasket straight away. KW dealer put a new head gasket in there and planed the head. That lasted a couple of months and then it blew another head gasket. Dealer took the blame because they didn't use new head bolts. We had to buy a new head this time. Throw in rods and mains and a new turbo that was bad from the git go and we dropped $13,000 in the first 12 months.

That is the dealers fault 100%. Cummins use torque to yield bolts in the heads and elsewhere which means they stretch and get tossed every time. I'm up for new exh manifold gaskets right now ( leaking ) so were going all new hardware, keepers , turbo gaskets and studs. No sense going to the commode without paper......

And yeah, my pan gasket was leaking....and I see a small one over by the ps pump ...and it looks like the valve cover is leaking above #6....but I scored that gasket new off Ebay for $10! ( See? Plentiful and cheap? )

Long blocks and heads are cheap too...... soon as I figure it out my EGR is toast.....just don't know how the ecm will like that idea yet.

 

$10 for that rubber gasket...may as well stole it. $110 form the dealer IIRC. I think I paid around $1300 for a head assy from Cummins but I can't be sure now. I remember thinking it was cheap.

 

I used to occasionally drive a former CRST 9400 with a 410E variant of the M11 set at 410hp, forget what the torque was. Admittedly it was geared to run long and light so a bit of a pain to get rolling if you were heavy and not the best in an uphill pull. OTOH that truck would return 7+ mpg week after week while cruising 65 at 1300rpm. Got pulled off the road because the chassis was too beat up. Around 1.4 mill as I recall with no rebuild. Got used as a spotter for another year or so till it blew a hose and someone ran it till it locked up.

Used to joke it was a team truck cause you'd have to change drivers three times before you got up the mountain.

 

Its what he wanted....who am I to argue ? I took the deal.....

 

That all depends on the quality of the parts and the quality of the guy doing the rebuilding. I've never rebuilt one twice, but I'd say the rebuild won't last as long as the original just because parts you get today probably aren't as good as the parts they used on mine in 1998 but I really don't know. I'll tell you in a few years. but I suspect if you got 1.2 million from the original you might get 1.0 from the rebuild.

Also, nobody ever replaces all the parts when they rebuild. Most people won't replace harmonic balancers and some might not replace oil pumps, water pumps. If this stuff fails it's going to shorten the life of the rebuild.

 

That would be ignorant...to not replace water pump, rod radiator and change oil pump plus clean and inspect oil cooler at rebuild. Balance is a should do. For myself I would also balance engine , port heads and possibly change valve angle. Those tasks are very inexpensive and would mean a better engine overall.

Believe it or not, many rebuilds fail prematurely because the mechanic didn't keep things clean during assembly.

JMO