Manual slide 5th wheel

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Thetrashnoob, Aug 7, 2025.

  1. 201

    201 Road Train Member

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    Aw, don't feel bad for asking, Laddie, it's why we're here. A sliding 5th wheel of any kind is kind of a thing of the past. As mentioned, big fleets generally haul the same trailers, and no need to slide. It's a greasy, dirty PITA anyway, and air slide rarely works, as it's not used much. Used to be, a slide was needed to get more weight on the steer, but I don't think that's an issue with todays trucks. What a fixed 5th wheel DOES require, is careful loading with heavy loads, and a rear suspension air gauge is paramount.
     
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  3. singlescrewshaker

    singlescrewshaker Road Train Member

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    Every fixed 5th I ever seen ya just take the 4 bolts out each side, & move to whatever holes in the frame ya want.

    Marlin spike helps to line up get the bolts started again..
     
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  4. '88K100

    '88K100 Road Train Member

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    ya you’ll have to unbolt and move to location of your choice

    I bought a new trailer for cheap that had fixed wheels. It was built for hauling soda pop. Only 7’ tall as well. Worked fine for my purpose as all my skids weights were identical and never had to deal with cities or tight locations
     
  5. Deezl Smoke

    Deezl Smoke Medium Load Member

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    This is another place where "fixed" can mean so many things. Like you mention, and my experience is similar, fixed simply means non sliding, but adjustable via bolts.
    But I have seen single axle city units with "fixed" fifths that need a torch and new hucks to do anything with.
    Some construction guys have their own version if fixed too. Those end dumps and windrow trailers require some special fix'n to their plates.
     
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  6. MACK E-6

    MACK E-6 Moderator Staff Member

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    Weigh your loads if you’re able to.

    If your drive and steer max out at about the same time, it’s good.
     
  7. MACK E-6

    MACK E-6 Moderator Staff Member

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    I have one on mine, and I run it slid up. With a single screw pulling a 48 footer you’re in a position where it’s very easy to overload the drive axle if you’re not careful.

    Truth be told though, the truck should really have more wheelbase than it’s got so the drive extends further under the trailer. On my truck for example, 20K on the drive typically equates to 10.8K on the steer with full fuel tanks. The steer can take at least another 1500 lbs, and I personally prefer to have max weight where I can control it.
     
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  8. Thetrashnoob

    Thetrashnoob Light Load Member

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    IMG_5984.jpeg
    now that I have the truck in front of me…. Looks like it’s relatively easy to adjust, unbolt slide and rebolt. I’m guessing it’ll need to wind up somewhere in between the 2 axles.
     
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  9. Deezl Smoke

    Deezl Smoke Medium Load Member

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    There we go. Nothing wrong with that.
    Before you adjust it, take a trailer across a local scale. Your wheelbase and front axle position will tell you a lot. There had to be a reason the current position was bolted down in that spot.
     
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  10. 201

    201 Road Train Member

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    Well, I wouldn't say easy, those bolts will take a lot to loosen. Looks like they wanted more weight on the steer, and that could be a good thing. I wouldn't mess with it, unless you are over on the steer.
     
  11. Thetrashnoob

    Thetrashnoob Light Load Member

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    I mean easy in the sense that it can be moved atleast! I’ll have to get a trailer and get it weighed, and hope it’s not over. We run overweight, and right up to pretty much what we are allowed. (Permitted 99k) truck has 12k front and 46 k rears
     
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