May Need To Add A Jake Brake. How Much??

Not exactly. The ecm just decides when to send power to the jake to activate it. And the mechanics of how it works prevents it from working when throttle is applied. Back in the day off mechanical engines, as long as you had flipped the toggle on your dash, the jake was always on, let up on the throttle and it kicked in, you could do the same with today's electronically controlled throttles. Not saying I think it's a good idea, but it is easy to set it up this way.

 

no argument there. In hindsight I should have taken it to pdi

 

do this way. find a truck like yours with jake brakes(same year, same engine). write down engine serial number of that truck. Go to dealer and get the p/n of jake brakes(they are two pieces and I think it's 797 model). Buy an engine harness ( or you can use two separate wires to connect jake's solenoids to mcm, mcm connector's terminals needed in this case) and one jake's tune-up kit. Go to junkyard and buy used jake brakes. inspect it and change all parts that is in tune-up kit. When you buy used jake pieces take all long and short bolts and two nuts you will need them. Open the rocker cover of your engine. Adjust valves, injectors now and remove rockers holding bolts and nuts. put jakes on top(make sure not to put them wrong, they are marked front and rear). torque them to 100lb. adjust jake brakes now. after overhead is done install the harness and put back the rocker cover. the truck is 2009 and it has mcm, cpc configuration. you will need Pro version DiagnosticLink 8 or DDDL7.11 to get into Parameter section and activate the jake brake. there is no need to flash the mcm .its not old version ddec V or IV. I know some shops have the software to activate the jake. Just look around to see who has it. if you can do this it will cost you max $1500-1700.

 

I have never seen a Series 60 without jakes. I would double check that the valve cover has enough clearance to fit the jake assemblies under it. If not you may need a taller valve cover or a riser. If you do need one make sure it will fit properly under your hood.

Another point I should mention is if you install it yourself, pay very close attention to which holes you install your mounting bolts. On the 12.7L 1 bolt for sure on each assembly is different from the rest (the bolt shank is skinnier than the others). This allows oil to pass from the oil galley in the head up into the jake assembly. Put the wrong bolt in and the jake won't work. I would be inclined to think the 14L version would be similar.

 

There are 2- 60's here without Jakes, 14L pre regin ex Penski's. Just saying some were made. The harness under the valve cover may or may not have wires for the jakes. So the dealer told me. If not that is another 4 or 5 hundred dollars. I would spend a little more time shopping and buy what I wanted unless I found a supper deal.

 

I would not spend $400-500 for new harness. There are only two wires are missing in the harness and we can make these wires. I know its oil resistant high temp wires. Connector's terminals cost pennies. last time I paid $2.50 for each.

 

Yep, you can make that wiring for less than twenty bucks and ten minutes of time. No need to buy a full harness.

 

Time to find a set for my truck,let me know if you know someone selling a set.

 

Double yellow, did you also have to install a micro switch (Normally closed) on your Clutch Pedal? or was It already there?