Maybe Going Skateboarding (to do?)

Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by BigKountry, Dec 9, 2016.

  1. Lepton1

    Lepton1 Road Train Member

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    Nov 23, 2012
    Yukon, OK
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    I just bought a truck last month. As soon as I pay it off in the next few months a three door headache rack is definitely going to replace the existing open rack. I will modify the interior to put my chains in oiled tubes and my binders in an organized rack (as posted in the Tips and Tricks thread).

    About the same time I will install a Legacy driver's seat and a custom steering wheel. I already upgraded the 9 speed with a 13 speed conversion. Step by step "Jenny Lou" will come around.
     
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  3. Airborne

    Airborne Medium Load Member

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    Dec 7, 2016
    KY
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    Jsut giving out fair warning to make sure of what you buy, all I was trying to say, from what I understand majority of the china steel is junk and not up to standards is what I was getting at also!!
     
  4. mc8541ss

    mc8541ss Road Train Member

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    Sep 22, 2007
    Lower Alabama
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    Uh oh, I never went to school for driving, much less load securement. And was never a company driver. Oh well.

    Check US Cargo Control on the Internet for load securement.
    Many, not all, pipe yards will require hardwood dunnage.
    The 3 door headache racks are nice but heavy. I haul mostly steel so we need to be able to load 48,000 lbs. Some think that's too heavy and will tell you not to worry about being able to load only 45k but I think it's best to have options, And essential for my operation. I use a standard headache rack, chains binders on each side and a bin across the bottom. Headache rack are not required by law but I have been to several places that require them. Mostly pipe yards.

    I have two all aluminum trailers, 1-48' Fontain Revolution and 1-53' Mac and I also have a 48' combo, Great Dane Freedom. All are good trailers though the Fontain can be a pia for wide loads. Given a choice of only 1 I would take the 53'. I like having more options and we pull a lot of over length and over width, but I got by for several years with only a 48' so it isn't necessary just nice to have.
    I like having the 2 side boxes on the trailer plus a dunnage rack and spare tire carrier. This will help keep things off the deck and less of a PIA for long loads.

    I use mostly snap binders but carry 4 ratchet binders for the few times that I may need them. I also use grad 70 -3/8 chains, that way I know my securement point is the weekest point. 5/16 chains are not rated as high as the securement points on my trailers.

    I only have 4' tarps but that's because we haul mostly steel and I only use those a couple of times a month. If I were having to work with brokers I would at least get a set of 6' tarps and possibly 8s.
    Straps, padding, strap winders and coil racks amongst other things have already been covered. If you can find a friendly manager at Truck Pro or Fleet Pride they will sometimes be able to match online prices. Also keep an eye on the classifieds here. Sometimes you will find people selling out.

    Get your little green book or look it up online for load securement and you can find a lot of training material online. You can read it to try and get a basic understanding and come on here and get things clairified. Many on here have lots of experience and can give page and paragraph to back up what they are telling you. To go along with actual photos.
    A few on here will be a Richard. Just ignore them.

    Good Luck whatever you decide.
     
  5. johndeere4020

    johndeere4020 Road Train Member

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    Ohio
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    Well you've burst on the scene how about a little background, are you a driver, how long, etc etc etc?
     
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  6. cke

    cke Road Train Member

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    Aug 4, 2013
    Colfax Wi
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    Why is the Fontaine a pain for wide loads
     
  7. mc8541ss

    mc8541ss Road Train Member

    1,467
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    Sep 22, 2007
    Lower Alabama
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    First, we haul a lot of plate for tank farms so it sets flat on the deck with cross ties on each end. So you can use chains on the ends but have no place to hook chains in the middle because the trailer is smooth underneath, no place to hook a chain. We end up having to use straps on the wench and hook to the frame of the trailer on the other side or either cut the hooks off of old straps and use a wench on each side. If you want to use all chains you need 4x4s underneath to get to the chain pull outs. The little 1.5x1.5 dunnage they normally try to load us with doesn't get it high enough off the deck to get the chain pulls out or to get the chains through the rub rail. This is no problem if you use straps but I like steel on steel when possible.
     
    Lepton1, cke, Airborne and 1 other person Thank this.
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