Might have burned my clutch? Salvageable/adjustable or nah?

Discussion in 'Freightliner Forum' started by PermanentTourist, Feb 13, 2024.

  1. PermanentTourist

    PermanentTourist Heavy Load Member

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    Before starting my drive this morning I said there and squeezed the clutch pedal down all the way like 20 times, and it's actually better now. I didn't know that's how they self-adjust, hopefully it at least somewhat fixed now and will get me through past tax season.
     
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  3. Magoo1968

    Magoo1968 Road Train Member

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    I’d like to add to this post about sliding tandems .. if you have the Auto Air pin locks that you need to dump trailer Air you can use a vice grip to hold button out . This way you can do the low speed tandem slide to break it loose. Always remember to remove vice grip . This technique has helped me on surfaces with bad traction many times.
     
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  4. PermanentTourist

    PermanentTourist Heavy Load Member

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    Update: nah, it's still misbehaving.

    Weird thing is... it doesnt slip in low gears when accelerating (even though thats when the torque is highest?).

    Instead, it does it's pulsating thing when in high gear and starting a hill climb? Or when climbing a hill and hitting a little bump for some reason, that also sends it fluctuating. Weird. It's like, it doesn't have the usual engagement problems I hear about but it does weird things when it's already engaged and has been for a while.

    I've never had clutch issues before. Is this normal? Or could it be something different like motor mounts? Who knows what I could have messed up while torturing those tandems...
     
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  5. Magoo1968

    Magoo1968 Road Train Member

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    Slipping clutch’s often first show symptoms in higher gears where more torque is on clutch . In lower gears more torque is on rear end and tires. Think of your clutch like your shoes when riding a 10 speed bike in lower gears you have no pressure on them but can spin the tires, in high gear you have a lot of pressure on them but can’t spin the tires anymore.
     
  6. 062

    062 Road Train Member

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    May have a broken spring lodged in a way that your not getting the full clamping force.
    If that’s the case,sometimes it will get spit out and return to normal.
     
  7. PermanentTourist

    PermanentTourist Heavy Load Member

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    Is there a way to confirm this through the inspection hole?
     
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  8. Big Road Skateboard

    Big Road Skateboard Road Train Member

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    More torque in the higher gears.

    Looking at that pic again, the fingers of your fork are right on the TO Bearing. If there is no slack, it's just like pushing tge pedal down.

    Could be because the clutch has no adjustment left, or another issue. There is a way to adjust it. IIRC, it involves unbolting the clutch from the flywheel.

    @jamespmack any info?
     
  9. PermanentTourist

    PermanentTourist Heavy Load Member

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    There is a big old adjustment bolt right there, it requires a weird size TORX with holes that I don't have on me on the road, otherwise I'd already be wrenching at it and making it worse probably.

    These clutches are supposed to be self-adjusting, and I've never had it touched since it was put in.
     
  10. jamespmack

    jamespmack Road Train Member

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    Well they way I have done it is have someone push indicator over to new, and have someone with engine off do 7-10 hard clutch dumps. It might stay closer to new and self adjust. May not. But of it has been slipping and he smelled clutch, it's been hot. If it was hot enough to create hot spots in flywheel, and glazed the flywheel. Any clutch will slip and chatter. With only diagnosis on a forum. I would replace clutch and surface flywheel.
     
  11. Diesel Dave

    Diesel Dave Last Few of the OUTLAWS

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    Those self adjusting clutches are not worth it. I had issues with mine, threw it away when I had the transmission gone through. And had a buddy with similar issues. Seems when they start acting up(like yours), then suddenly they “self adjust” and your good another short while until it cycles again.

    On a different note, before sliding tandems, I spray all around the pins with a lubricant, once the locking pins are released, I started rolling which either direction and pull the trailer brake lever, that momentum should be enough to be able slide the tandems. The way you did it is a killer on all drive component as you figure out.
     
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