In my previous post I was looking for a schematic depicting the battery cable layout for a 2016 Freightliner Cascadia Evolution with a DD15 motor, last six of the VIN are HF6666. Well, now the batteries are back in place, and the motor seems to crank right up without any problems. However, I've now encountered one or two electrical issues which I don't understand. A. The ID lights located on the roof of cab won't stop flashing. (Possible theft protection?) B. The front turning signals are flashing along with ID lights. C. The rear tailights aren't working. (possible blown fuse or bad bulbs?) D. Rear turning signals are not flashing along with front signals and ID lights. (Appear to be dead) I'm guessing that the flashing lights must be due to a malfunctioning relay, most likely located within the fuse box inside the cab? Or could there be something else causing this problem, such as an anti-theft mechanism? So, now I would like to locate diagrams showing the layout of the fuse and relay locations for the below boxes. 1. SAM Cab box 2. Powertrain PDM (PT-PDM) 3. Powernet Distribution Box (PNDB) 4. SAM Chassis box. I'm guessing that problem is located in number one or number four in my above list. I've tried contacting the dealership, but they said that their diagrams don't show which fuses are located in which spots inside the boxes. Any info greatly appreciated.
Okay, I've managed to make some progress with this, but now I need to know which fuse controls clearance ID lamps located above the windshield. It seems that it must be one of the blue 15 amp fuses located in the box inside the gove box, but which one? Anyone have an idea which one it is?
Are you aware of Welcome to DTNA eComponents website?. A lot of helpful information available there. Especially the SAM Wall Chart https://www.dtnaecomponents.com/Fre...DateAugust2nd2010AndNewer/SAMWallChart6_0.pdf
Yes, someone at one of the dealerships sent it to me. Also, looks like the SAM Chassis in this particular truck isn't functioning properly, and that is apparently why all of the lights are blinking. I checked the 125 Amp fuse inside the Main PNDB and it was good. However, the main power connections located at the bottom of the SAM Chassis are heavily corrded, and I'm hoping that is the problem. Didn't have a brush small enough to get in there and clean the studs after I removed the electrical cables, so I'm going to have to go back in a few days and take a closer look.
Tried to clean and tighten all of the electrical connections, but that didn't have any affect. So, now we are trying to figure out how to scrape together enough money for a new SAM Chassis.
Cedric62, You probably did this if your planning on replacing the SAM Chassis, but be sure to measure the voltage on SAM chassis on both the positive and ground feeds with some of the circuits turned on to create a load on SAM Chassis. About back in April 2022, I ran across a 2013 Cascadia day cab with the ground cable was bad on the SAM Chassis. I was seeing between 6 & 7 volts on the ground. The ground cable at the grounding block was 0.0 Volts but 16 inches away on the end of the cable that bolts to the SAM Chassis the ground was showing between 6 & 7 volts. The cable didn't look bad. However, I did not cut it apart but clearly it had significant resistance. The original complaint was no hazards and trailer light issues among others. Again, proper testing needs to be done before the SAM CHASSIS is replaced. Also, replacement SAM CHASSIS has to be programmed to the truck. I would caution that to be sure to test for a good battery power and a good ground to SAM CHASSIS. A couple years ago I was assigned to replace a SAM CHASSIS & program it, as it was deemed bad by diagnosing tech. Well, removed and replaced and programmed. I forgot what original problem was, but it was still there after new SAM CHASSIS installation. I then got to do some testing and found that the ground cable between the Mega Ground Junction Block and the SAM CHASSIS was bad. Replacing that short ground cable fixed the problem and I am sure it was significantly cheaper than the SAM CHASSIS.
I was hoping that it was someting as simple as a bad ground cable, but that doesnt seem to be the case. If I measure the voltage at the two large connectors located near the bottom of the Chassis, I get something like 13.75 volts. (Get 14.25 at the alternator) However, if I move the negative probe of my voltmeter to a bare piece of metal, such as a bolt on the frame, then the voltage stayed more or less the same. Maybe it dropped a few tenths of a volt, but maybe that was probably due to paint and dirt stiking to the bolt after I cleaned it with a brush. Also, I know that this probably wasn't the best idea, but we temporarily ran a piece of number four gauge wire from the negative side of the batteries under the cab, and then I touched the other end onto the negative connector on the SAM Chassis, didn't make any difference.
