Mountain grades

That bit about roping wagons and livestock down a hill rings true. A relative of mine was one of the first settlers in Sumner, WA. I read his journal. They veered off the Oregon Trail and crossed the Columbia River on rafts, then worked their way northwest to cross the Cascades just south of Mount Rainier. He described hard days making less than a mile a day at times getting down the steep west side. They cut trees to create a wood road, then roped down the cattle and wagons. It took over two weeks to fight their way to the Puyallup River, where they built rafts and floated to the fertile valley and established Sumner.

There was no mention in the journal about whining. Truckers today should bear in mind what our ancestors went through.

 

Would love to read that. I can barely find the energy to type a comment on here after sitting on my butt driving Today, let alone after all the seal they had to endure.

 

I thought this thread needed a resurrection. I'm headed down I-75 from Lexington, KY headed to Dalton, GA. Would someone be able to give me the skinny on grades I should be thinking about in my trip plan?

 

Absolutely not. Is there an issue?

 

Nah. Some members of this forum frown on resurrecting old threads. Others frown on making new threads on old topics.

Darned if you do. Darned if you don't.

Regarding your question: treat all hills the same, with respect. Begin slower than you think you need to, in a lower gear than you need to. Pop your 4-ways if you are descending at less than 40 mph.

After a few times over that hill you might figure out you can go faster in a higher gear safely. But NOT THE FIRST TIME.

 

I take it you haven't been down any good grades yet. That's OK because I know drivers that only been on flat ground. The first thing you must do to check to make sure all your brakes are working properly. If your slack adjusters are out then you can apply 90 lbs of air and they should move to adjustment. If not have the shop look at them. You are not to get under the truck and adjust them yourself.

When you come up to a down grade slow way down and get the truck into a gear where you're cruising around 35mph. Set your engine brake and just let it go down hill. If your engine brake is working like it should you'll maybe touch the brakes once or twice depending on the grade. Now if you don't have an engine brake you can try the way I've done it with loads over 110,000lbs going into SalT Lake City. Start at 35mph and let the truck drift up to 40mph then apply steady pressure and slow down to 30mph. Release the brakes when you're drifting. I've come down many grades with permitted loads (over 110,000 lbs) and have never smoked the brakes. If you start out slow during the first part of your driving then you can get to know just how fast you can go. Remember, making sure the tractor is ready and in top notch shape will save you money. You'll get it then you'll knew that driving a truck is a little more than just standing up beating your chest.

 

Have crossed several...Hells Canyon,Truckee,Cabbage hill,Donner etc.Basically,use Common Sense.Dont "Bunch up",yes leave a good amount of room between you and the truck or car in front of you.That driver may lay it over or blow out a steer,hit someone in front of them.Yes,you just Might have to completely Stop!. So,Before you get to the top(to start the descend) get a little slower than you want to go Down The Hill.In the summer,I use jake brakes and Rarely use "Stab braking",just to drop say 5mph,then off the brakes.Blizzard conditions with chains on is 25 downhill.Slick roads with out chains on is "still downhill crawl",with No Jake.Lowlock,fairly low gear and light stab braking on the straights(not on the curves).No quick or jerky steering movements.Just what has worked for me

 

To all of the haters...
First, I used the Search Function and found this thread; one of the best threads ever for info on negotiating tricky decents. Second, I'm a new driver and need to learn these things a.s.a.p. Third, this is the appropriate place for questions from new drivers. And fourth, it doesn't hurt anyone, to be reminded of proper techniques.

I went down Jellico Mountain yesterday early morning. Dark, light rain and fog which made me grab the steering wheel a bit tighter than I'm accustomed. I'm heading to Dalton, GA on Tuesday so I'm wondering if there are additional grades on I-75 that I should prepare for.

Thanks to those folks who have contributed.

 

Spot on.

A word of advice about gripping the steering wheel tight: DON'T.

Start PRACTICING staying loose. Start with the hands. Never put your thumbs inside the wheel. Instead have your thumbs on top and only grip the wheel by friction of your palm and fingers, your hands should be in as straight to your forearm as possible. If you put your thumbs inside the wheel it will cause you to #### your wrists at about a 45° angle, a good way to start developing carpal tunnel syndrome.

Next, relax your arms. Let them hang limply all the way to the base of your neck, like wet noodles. Shake your elbows back and forth towards each other if you feel any tension developing.

Apply the same principles of relaxation to shifting. Instead of grabbing the shifter in the palm of your hand, hold it in your finger tips to make your shifts. Your transmission will start sending you love letters.

These relaxation drills have certainly helped me improve my driving AND it has another huge benefit. Emotions create actions and actions create emotions. The tighter you grip, the tighter your arms and neck, the more you become anxious. Drain those negative emotions away with a relaxed set up for steering and relaxed shifting. It becomes almost zen like to drive in heavy traffic or challenging roads (or off road).

Last, another respected forum member said something that has stuck with me:

Learn to love the dance.

By "the dance" he was referring to how the steering wheel "dances" left and right on rough roads or slick, choppy conditions. Don't fight it. Let your relaxed hands and arms let the steering wheel do it's thing, with soft nudges to stay on line.