N14 Celect Plus Misfire and Gray Smoke

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by SpeedyGonzalez, Aug 4, 2019.

  1. SpeedyGonzalez

    SpeedyGonzalez Light Load Member

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    I started off with that, but the PO broke the connector on numbers 3 and 4 and I'm worried about breaking the pass through. I got some better tools and will give that a try later today. Cylinders 1 and 2 both caused the engine to stumble when they were each disconnected.
     
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  3. AArtemtrk

    AArtemtrk Light Load Member

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    See if you can diagnose with a laser/infrared thermometer for now if it’s a consistent miss one cylinder will be cooler where manifold goes into head
     
  4. SpeedyGonzalez

    SpeedyGonzalez Light Load Member

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    I can get one of those. Currently I'm trying to find the accesory drive marks for the overhead but they're rusted away. Any other way to do it?
     
  5. AArtemtrk

    AArtemtrk Light Load Member

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    You gotta emery cloth the accessory drive they’ll be there there stamped they might be hard to see but should be able to find them
     
  6. AArtemtrk

    AArtemtrk Light Load Member

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    Or watch for when injector rocker starts moving this you can set valves at this point but not injector
     
  7. SpeedyGonzalez

    SpeedyGonzalez Light Load Member

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    I ended up going with a variation of this, got 3 through 6 set right. But there's a wicked clacking from the rocker box for 1 and 2 after I set the injectors and valves. I think I ended up bending the injector plunger because it never bottomed out and I took it all the way down to the stop. I set all the injectors when their respective intake open valves were open and did all the valves when the injector was at the bottom of its stroke. I'm tearing into it again tomorrow. The idle smoothed out quite a bit, but it only ran for a few seconds with that clacking so I still don't know about the popping, the smoke was heavily reduced with the overhead with 3 through 6 though so fingers crossed, fixing 1 and 2 will end this saga.
     
  8. Working2party

    Working2party Medium Load Member

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    If you still can’t find the timing marks. You can us a dial indicator and make sure the Injector is at the very bottom, (sometimes there’s alittle bump or step there. And that both valves on that cylinder are loose. But make sure your at the bottom with injector. You can set all 3 rockers there. The injector will be set by bottoming the rocker arm out (no more than 25 in-lbs. I usually back it off and torque it back down a few times to make sure the oil is cleared and I’m definitely bottomed. Then back it off 2 flats (120deg).

    While you have your dial indicator out, measure the cam Injector love stroke. They should all be the same (or #### close) If not, that’s your problem.
     
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  9. AArtemtrk

    AArtemtrk Light Load Member

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    Check for bent pushrods as well. You should really try to find marks on accessory drive, will help minimize any uncertainty. I’ve been surprised a few times by how corroded they can get and still show up with good cleaning. Also count threads above locknuts they should be close to same position for all similar valves, (eg all exhaust valves similar, all intake valves similar).
     
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  10. AArtemtrk

    AArtemtrk Light Load Member

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    I was typing my response when you posted yours so I didn’t realize all the necessary information was already made available lol
     
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  11. SpeedyGonzalez

    SpeedyGonzalez Light Load Member

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    I'll try taking some Emery cloth to the acc. drive. What's the procedure for pulling the injector rods, can I just undo the adjuster bolts all the way and pull them out through that, or am I pulling the rockers?
    I've been cranking the injector bolts down and up to empty the injectors, but have been two scared to go too tight and screw something up, a common occurrence that I've noticed so far is that all the injectors are more like 2 turns out then 2 faces when I first start adjusting. Is that normal or am I looking at a flat cam across the board?
     
    Sani101 Thanks this.
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