N14 Celect tear down.

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by mile marker 27, Mar 3, 2024.

  1. mile marker 27

    mile marker 27 Road Train Member

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    I’m thinking oil cooler, oil pump, front cover gasket and radiator, as well.
     
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  3. Last Call

    Last Call Road Train Member

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    I meant to say NOT calling your a Liar. I’am sorry
     
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  4. mile marker 27

    mile marker 27 Road Train Member

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    I knew what you meant. I mess up trying to type all the time with my hands all tore up. I gotta reread everything and edit the #### out of all my questions and responses.
     
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  5. mile marker 27

    mile marker 27 Road Train Member

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    Can you guys give me any advice on checking the oil pump after I remove it. Truck had good oil pressure but I feel I need to at least examine or replace it. If I replace it, is genuine Cummins the best? What about the oil temp thermostat?
     
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  6. Last Call

    Last Call Road Train Member

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    I know what you mean I need to proof read better
     
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  7. mile marker 27

    mile marker 27 Road Train Member

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    Turned 1, 3, 5, & 7 mains loose and rolled out the tops. Crank feels much better than the bearings look. Felt for any scratches with my fingernail and felt nothing. I suppose I got lucky. Moved on to the oil pump to get it removed and dang some of those bolt are hard to reach. How many actually hold the pump to the front cover? IMG_5189.jpeg IMG_5190.jpeg
     
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  8. W923

    W923 Road Train Member

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    Pretty sure it’s 5 bolts and certainly only the 7/16 ones (5/8 wrench)
    Sounds like you’re ok on the crank
    What about fretting on the main caps where they bolt to the block. as far as the oil pump if it has good oil pressure just make sure the gears aren’t starting to flake or major scoring on the housing and put it back together definitely put new o rings on the plug outside of the pressure relief…they like to leak.. get them from Cummins or get???viton??? Ones…regular black ones from a o ring kit don’t like the heat I guess and get hard fast.
    I hate cutting corners but I’ve seen to many people go broke fixing the what if’s that aren’t broken and don’t usually fail. The oil cooler I would either replace or flush due to possible crumbs waiting inside.
     
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  9. mile marker 27

    mile marker 27 Road Train Member

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    Well, I’m sure this engine has been rebuilt 2-3 times prior to this and I wouldn’t bet a dollar, that it’s been off in the past. So, as you said, I’m gonna check the gears, end play and replace o rings and gaskets. Just quality assurance, I guess. I seen a video of a guy(Jpaydirt) checking the oil pump and deleting the oil temperature thermostat. Removed the thermostat and basically put a freeze plug in its place. His idea was, the thermostat is set at too high of temp to thin oil down and make it easier to pump but that also decreases oil pressure and breaks down oil quicker. I’m gonna take the cooler apart and at least flush it out.
     
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  10. mile marker 27

    mile marker 27 Road Train Member

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    My buddy that works parts at Pete said $1600 for PAI and $2500 Cummins, on an in frame. Am
    I getting better quality with the Cummins OE or paying for the name? With quality being #1, which would you choose?
     
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  11. W923

    W923 Road Train Member

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    Cummins might be slightly better quality but I would say that’s debatable. I have seen parts from both fail and occasional problems with quality from both. The only pai failure I have had in a long time is a front crankshaft seal that was too small and literally came out of the timing cover when it got hot. I had a set of main bearing for a isx that appeared to have grit embedded in the bearing surface from Cummins. I would say Cummins is probably 99 percent buying a name. Pai definitely has a better warranty and from my experience will stand behind it.
    you really need to check the mains for fretting before you order anything.
     
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