N14 starting problems cranks FOREVER !!!!!

You need at least 75lbs going rapidly to 140 PSI for it to start, check to inlet restriction, many have the cooling plate plugged, anything above 10 inches vacuum while cranking, with a new 1212 filter and you have a restriction, You also want to test the voltage at the solinoid you need at least 9.6 vols while cranking if you have power there then the ECM is wanting to allow it to start. You need 195 RPM and two revolutions, to start, if the power to the solinoid is OK the engine positioning sensor is OK
If you have lower than 9.6 volts, then you want to clean the batteries, and grounds and check the power to the ECM connector, usually by the starter it is a three wire plug, the outside two are power inside is ground. I have connectors, and use a headlight to check the power. As long as you have power to both and a good ground you should be OK.
Cleaning the battery and grounds, checking the ECM fuses, and ECM power, is always the first thing to do.
Just a thought!

 

When you are cranking, if the engine speed sensor is good you will see some engine speed on the tach. If you crank excessively and the tach reads zero, then comes to life, and then your engine fires, I would say your engine position sensor is pooched. Chances are you have a combination of problems. Weak fuel pump, weak check valve, and worn fuel lines that are just starting to suck a little air because they are old and dried out. The pump is worn to the point where it is fine to develop proper pressure when running, but just worn enough to not pick up the fuel when first cranked. You may some flow, but not enough pressure. With a weak, or worn check valve sometimes it seats properly, then the next time it is just a tick off and allows fuel to slowly drain back. Weak pumps really don't suck fuel very well at all if there is some air in there.

 

It's normal for a clean N14 fuel filter to run at only half full so don't worry about that. The easiest way to diagnose this problem is to install a guage on the fuel pump and watch the pressure as you crank the engine. Most likely the engine will start as soon as the pump builds pressure. If this happens I would check the pump, the drive and the fuel tank vent. (assuming there are no leaks anywhere in the system)

 

The Cam Sensor is a four wire sensor located above the oil pump. You will need a special tool for removal/installation.

 

the Engine position sensor is on the drivers side above the power steering pump..need a special socket to remove..i just replaced mine and it starts up fine..
99.9% sure that's your problem

 

it might be a bad ECM..i would call Terry at: http://www.heavydutypowertrain.com/
hes got some you tube video's that discuss problems including hard starts..
check out his site, tons of N14 information. Here's his cell 727-424-6163

 

The N14 Celect in our T2000 cranked forever before it would start when I first got into it a couple years ago. After a month of the BS, I went and had batteries tested. Bad battery, so I put four new ones in. Still cranked ten seconds then would start. Had starter tested, it was bad, so put a new starter on it. Still would crank at least ten seconds before it would start.

Everyone said that's a N14 for ya. Well a couple weeks ago, we replaced all six injectors. Been having an issue for a few months, losing power and missing out pulling hills. Changing the injector wiring harness and still there. So we replaced all the injectors and now she fires right up. Cranks for like a second and starts up.

So IMO, at least in our situation, it was a bad injector the entire time. The mechanic said you can't tell which injector is bad with cummings so they just replace them all. Regardless, I do know it's nice to hit the key and have the darn thing fire up.