Been there a few times. The one thing about those old mechanical engines, there was an adjustment and measurement for everything. Having a good engine guy was important. Although your working with an N-14 which is electronic. Out of the big three, they left the most things to adjustment. I had to find a few good engine guys to get my first one done. And moreover I had to take my time and make sure it right when I put the final torque on things.
Make sure that roller is smooth and tight and it should be OK. It won’t hurt anything more than your feelings and maybe another set of push tubes if you should replace the cam/followers right now and decide not to.
We’re mechanics we don’t get to have feelings!!! Lol and when we do a job a second time it’s #### sure going to last and it doesn’t matter how tight the little old mom and Pops wallet is. Try to save them a dime now, never know, the old Iron might run a long time like that.
Now would be the time to pull the rest of the push tubes and make sure they aren’t also bent or cracked. As long as you’ve been changing this, they can’t scoff much Omer another couple sets of gaskets.
N14 Top End Knock
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by SpeedyGonzalez, Sep 3, 2019.
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Pulled the rest today, they were all straight using a straight edge. I hear ya, I'm trying to nickel and dime but parts for these are cheap thankfully, used set of followers in good shape is 40 and new is around 200 more. A cam is cheaper than an engine. I'm just so lost on how it could have gotten that bad without me noticing considering how many times I've pulled the rockers in the past month, never occured to me to check the push tubes. My guess is because the pushtubes were bent the timing was way off and that's what the knock was. Cummins dealer said compressor gaskets, drive spider, etc. wont be here for a couple days so I've got time with the truck to thoroughly inspect everything.
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Bad injector my guess.
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When I had my BC 1 rebuilt back in the 90’s, when the mechanic(working on his own time off), before he put the push tubes back in, he tap them to see if he could hear if they were solid or if they had filled with oil. Then he would roll them back and forth on a straight flat table to make sure they weren’t bent.
Working2party Thanks this. -
Come to find out in my haste to get back on the road I didn't set the Jake's, they were too tight and always actuated. I broke an injector connector(surprisingly got shocked too) and developed a miss on cylinder 3, but other than that all seemed to be good. Got a set of Duetsch connectors on order to fix the plug.
Completely unrelated side note, has anyone here tried making their own injector harness?
The materials are pretty crappy, the wire isn't exactly what I'd expect to see in a high vibration high heat application, the duetsch connectors are pretty nice though, beats the hell out of weatherpaks. Switching to a high strand silicone insulated wire would last much longer, especially if you got the ETFE coated variety, could probably be done for a couple hundred bucks instead if the outrageous 900ish for the celect plus harness. -
Did you change the pass thru connectors for the injectors. That's a cheap PM item.
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IMO Deutsche is a superior connector to Weatherpak. I've been told that Weatherpak are better in circuits that carry higher current though.
pushbroom Thanks this. -
I think they're rated to 13 amps at 12VDC, but they dont last at all. We used to use them on one of the racecars and they were always the cause of electrical problems, switched to ampseal 16 connectors and never looked back.
Yessir, 20 bucks a pop, did all 6 just for the peace of mind.
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