Navistar regen correctly?

In Internationals the high exhaust temp warning light will only come on when you are moving at 5 mph or less. The warning is there so you do not catch grass or near by hazards on fire. On the high way they think there is no need for any indication that a regen is happening.

 

Wow not that is no joke.

 

The recalls are a never ending part of owning one of these. The recalibrations are issued almost monthly! International was relying on "advanced EGR" for its emission solution when everyone else went to SCR. The EGR systems on all Maxxforce engines are severely overworked and the parts are simply too light to handle it. For sure, your truck is very young to have all that go wrong, but I am sorry to say, you are not alone!!! Honestly, they are well aware of the reliability issues and are working very hard to improve it, that is why there are so many recalls and updates. We are being told there are constant part resigns and improvements. International part numbers end in C91. Every time the part gets redesigned or a major update they upgrade the last number to C92, then C93 and so on. Many parts are reaching C97 status, so they have been reworked many times. We now have to record EGR valve serial numbers when we change them so they can try and figure out which batch keep failing.
Your regen problems, with premature plugging, turbo coking, injector plugging, smoking I bet is all related. Turbo coking is from either oil getting sucked into the intake from somewhere,(bad crank case filter, or air compressor) or bad turbo seals. Either way, the engine is sucking in and burning oil. Are you loosing oil in between oil changes? The oil burning will plug and clog up aftertreatment systems really fast. The dip stick on these engines are terrible and confusing to read. Many drivers/owners over fill their engines without even knowing and overfull engines will cause these problems. On the dipstick are two notches cut into the sides, you need to totally ignore these notches, they mean absolutely nothing!!! The full mark is the top of the cross-hatch. Anything over that is over full! Even the word, "FULL" is actually too far away from the top of the cross-hatch, and this contributes to the confusion. Oil level anywhere in that cross-hatch is fine. We fill them to 3/4 of the way up. Check yours! Your truck should not be smoking. If there is black smoke, and your pipes are stained black, your DPF is cracked!!! Make sure you have them replace it! Not clean it!
Every new truck needs an alignment, I don't care what others say! Your truck needs an alignment, trust me! The outer shoulder is wearing on your right steer. This will always cause a pull to the right. Steer tires do need to be rotated side to side to help even out the wear. Due to road crown, all trucks will drift to the right. The outer shoulder on the right steer gets more stress on it then the left steer. Even with a good alignment you will need to swap the steers side to side every so often to even that stress out. Get your truck aligned and swap the steers. It will have a slight pull to the left after since that tire is now worn, but it should wear a little more even after some time.

 

Hey Heavyd.. I got almost a similar issue. My truck is asking for a regen every 12 miles on a highway speed and most of my driving is on a highway speed. It starts to blink at about 30 miles and then starts to beep at about 40 to 50 miles and then i have to do a parked regen for 30 mins. I have gotten the dpf and doc filter cleaned and baked. It passed all the tests and it went in 4.0 and came back at 1.0. Can you please help and let me know what could be the issue here?

 

Few things. Highway driving is suppose to be ideal for automatic regens. If you are on the highway and you get DPF warning lights come on, then the system isn't healthy. Do not wait until you have flashing or beeping alarms. Once you have a solid warning light you need to pull over. You are waiting too long if you wait for flashing and then flashing and beeping.
DOC's do degrade over time and lose their efficiency. DPFs also never come fully clean after a bake and clean, so it may have too much ash in it that they can't get out even though the flow tests show pass. What is 4.0 and 1.0 for? Inches of water for the DOC or DPF? When cleaning the DOC/DPF you also need to be cleaning or replacing the doser injector. With frequent regens you also need to make sure the engine is healthy and making proper boost and exhaust pressures. I have lots of posts in the International section about Maxxforce testing. Unfortunately, there isn't much you can do without a laptop and diagnostic software to monitor what the engine is doing.

 

Thanx heavyd.. I cleaned out the pre doc( doser injector) and drove 60 miles to check if the light would come back on again and thankfully it didn't.. keeping my fingers crossed. If anyone is have the same issue please try to clean the dpf,doc and pre doc first to see if that will fix the problem.
Heavyd any suggestions on getting delete?

 

Sorry, I don't get into that.