Need turbo advice: Detroit 12.7 s60

I follow all that, and thank you. So, to clarify, as long as I watch my turbo and keep it at or around 30psi on a pull, I should be fine? OTR operation.

And, if I read correctly, while I won’t see the benifits of the 171702 non wg turbo without injectors and tune, I wouldn’t be hurting anything by going with this turbo for now while I wait on the right time to add the other things?

Also, I’m unfamiliar with what an “11 blade” turbo is. Where can I find more information on this and Leon? Thanks

I fully agree, but playing the cards I was dealt. A regearing is not in the budget, or justified at this point. If I want to see sub 1500rpm’s, I need to be below 60mph, which I am maybe 1/3 the time. I tend to cruise at 64ish, but sometimes I’m in get-there mode. Before it got real cold, I had a run up with18k in the box, and back down with 28k in the box, and I ran 70+ the hole trip with 2 fill ups averaging a little over 7mpg for the trip. Mpg suffering in the winter, especially with more idle nights. But it is what it is for right now.

 

I’ve never seen my pyro above 900, but to be fair, I don’t look at it that often and it’s on the opposite side of the dash from my turbo. Most of time on the flat when I glance at it, it’s around 700ish. Always watching the turbo on a pull.

 

I think the 702 will work good with the 373s. The noticeable difference is at higher RPMs.1500+. You’ll notice a difference. Original injectors are just fine. Not going racing, Lol. The manifold is expensive. Not really needed, unless pushing high HP. I guess I’ll end up getting my ECM “tuned”. Mainly for fuel economy. That’s most important. This Trucks never gotten good economy since new. Got to do something about that.

 

Some set injector calibrations at 75 on all 6. It gives better response at lower RPMs, but can cause a rough idle. I had mine set different. Took the highest calibration number, set it at 75. Then added the difference to the other 5. Seems good. Still Idles smooth. Also put flow through mufflers on. Supposed add a little hp. letting it breath better. Next is drilling out the return fuel restriction fitting on back of head. I think it’s .88mm stock. Drilling to 100-105mm, Max supposedly allows fuel to return quicker, thus lowering fuel temp in head, for better atomized fuel. What the heck, I’ll try it. Cheap and easy to do. The other cheap trick is putting a 10 ohm? resister on the turbo boost sensor. Tricks the turbo somehow. I’m not sure exactly. But I think it makes the turbo perform better at higher RPMs, and a bit less at lower RPMs. A bit of a trade off. I hear it’s even better to tap sensor into the intake, closer to the cac instead of installing a resistor. Don’t really know myself. Just ideas for you to research. All old cheap tricks for 12.7s

 

My experience is, the more touch things, the more I complicate things lol. Looking for simplicity and as close to bolt on, set it and forget it as possible.

 

Same here, one thing at a time also. That way, if there’s a problem, you know what it is. Change 5 things at once, and if there’s a problem. Where do you start?

 

171702 will be a little laggy on a 470 id go will the 701 thats not waste gated

 

I think the 701 is waste gated, 702 isn’t. Otherwise their the same.

 

Wrong.

171702 is a 75mm compressor
171701 is a 71mm compressor

Everything else is the same. No wastegate.

 

Ah ha!! That explains a lot. Thanks. I wonder what the 2 BWs I bought in the past were. They were wastegated, supposed to cross over time original garret, on my 12.7 Both times bought off the shelf at Truckpro.