I see you fixed the problem at hand but, as previously stated, wheel taper could be worn to deep to use. The nuts may have some wear but, it won’t be as near as the wheel. Want to stay with alum, ? Get new or good serviceable ones and new nuts, torque to 450/500 lbs. I use small amounts of copper anti- seize on the studs and torque, run 50-100 mi retorque and wipe anti- seize off.
Never seen this before, loose lug nuts on steer tire? (pics)
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by 85COE, May 27, 2022.
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That’s a hub piloted hub and wheel. Some idiot put the wrong nuts on it. I don’t think the taper matters on the wheel. The right nuts would probably fix the problem. Ideally I’d like to replace both hubs, they look old. Hub kits aren’t very expensive. $250 each, last time I priced them. Comes with the bearings and races already installed. Little over $1000 in parts, you can have new hubs, w/studs, bearings, and 2 new aluminum rims. On the cheap side, 10 new nuts might be all that’s needed.
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If going far enough to replace studs and what not, I'd almost consider upgrading to hub pilots up front.
Don't even know how easy it'd be to even find Budd rims these days. They haven't been a production option on trucks in over 20 years.Another Canadian driver, Dino soar, cke and 2 others Thank this. -
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4 states has new budd steels for $163.
Rotating drives last weekend the 1/2 battery impact got them plenty tight. Re checked them with the bar and they didn't budge. Checked em again a few days later and they're fine.Another Canadian driver, cke, Rideandrepair and 1 other person Thank this. -
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