New AC bracket for Series 60

Now this is right up my alley.Hope I can help you out.My experience is that there is an actual bracket.I saw one once on a Freightliner must have been a2002 or newer.I tried for a long time to find one.I wish I had gotten the last 6 of the vin from that truck.That is until I priced a bracket at dealer.Junkyards if I could find one won’t sell that or the front cover as they like to sell engines complete.Like the previous driver said they make a conversion kit. I bought just the bracket but it was for use with a standard(can’t recall what they call it) mount compressor.I wanted to stay with a pad mount and I wanted to stay with the most common compressor avail.I went 2 summers weekly runs to Louisiana.Because I got so sick of changing York style Tcc whatever they call those junk compressors.Ive been told they were great for years when they were cast iron.Now if clutch which is easy to change but the burn up the bearings right away cause their made from aluminum now.Regardless My first truck 92 western star Sanden lasted a million miles.So to the point.I got a catalog from TruckPro that has every hvac part for every Truck Made.The problem with the conversion kit is the compressor is not a common one and cost quite a bit more and usually has to be ordered.Im trying to explain it but it’s a very confusing thing as dealers and parts guys can only help if you have a vin # that’s why the guy just gave me his parts book and said good luck.Ok so what I did was bought a piece of 1.5” x1.5# steel square tube.I cut it into 2 equal lengths and drilled holes to mount on top of bracket. Then aligned compressor really eyed it up and used a flat edge and a piece of string around all pulleys to get the proper pulls alignment then drilled holes in top of steel tube to match up with compressor. You have to do this because the bolt patterns are different on compressors.The 1.5” square tube gives you the right height. So you can keep original fan belt length.You don’t want it too tight on clutch or tension pulls or too loose for obvious reasons.To further complicate things freightliner upgraded my part # for my 2001 And now gives me a I” longer belt I did find same belt as orig either way you’ll have to check all that as you go.I measured with a piece of string around all pulleys to come up with the 1.5”measurement needed to raise up sanden since the clutch diameter is also different.Bottom line it worked great.I now have a pad mount shed Sanden compressor it’s a new one that has a fuse in clutch that blows if compressor seizes up slowing the clutch pulls only to still operate.This way there’s no need to “shortbelt” the alternator if the clutch or compressor seizes.Done that many times not easy on a pad mount.Ive had to shim the alternator as soon as the “shirt belt stretches a bit.The compressor costs about $40 more than a standard one and is only avail in a pad mount.ive changed it once in 5 yrs because of an overcharge mistake I made and split the first in wide open.What they do make is a manifold that easily converts the lines, if needed. I first changed the head to fit my existing lines so I could buy a line using vin # same as belt.However when I Changed compressor last summer I had new ends from junkyard welded to the ends of existing lines since I can’t afford the dealer lines anyway. Muck cheaper to have them made up like I did with removable ends so you can get a hose made anywhere.Same with bunk hoses ran hose all the way as the fancy dealer line set costs $1000 or something crazy like that.It takes a bit of planning but is well worth it. I’m glad I finally got it right and affordable to maintain wi readily avail parts.In not done yet I plan on doing bull gear and having Front cover welded up as the holes are already walloped out.Thought I was done with Detroit bracket problems like my 1999 had.However the pad mount bracket has its own problems too.Needs to be drilled out and sleeved. They actually had a kit for this Freightliner in Vicksburg Ms told me they would do it for $1000 a few yrs back said they had done kllms whole fleet.Last I checked the kit was no longer available.Thats just a start Iknow it’s a lot but I’m trying to be clear.I plan on tacking the nuts on inside of square tubing to make swapping compressor easier. But not till I get bracket and front cover a fixed up right.You can also slot the holes you drill in tubing for forward or rearward adjustment.I tried to avoid this to prevent walking movement of compressor but may have to in future when all is perfect. Meanwhile I keep an eye on bracket keeping it shimmed against front plate and bolts tight. Once they get loose and the bracket starts rocking the bolts snap.Even heat treated bolts. My advise is if your bracket and front plate are still goo keep the bolts tight. Freightliner claims its Detroit vibration problem.I also plan on extending bottom of bracket as there is one open hole unused still available on front cover. I’m not at truck but will try to update with pictures and part #s if you or anyone else is serious about ditching that piece of crap York!!!

 

Update, here’s the actual bracket needed. I’m upgrading my homemade conversion. Getting the correct bracket. Anyone knowing the part # for correct 6 rib serpentine belt, please post it. Freightliner, 12.7, pad mount alternator and pad mount Sandens compressor.

 

Update, the correct 8 rib belt is GT4080565, along with the bracket, Sanden compressor. Get rid of that York/TCI junk compressor.

 

Do you have the parts numbers for all the parts to change it out. My truck someone made all the brackets homemade. I need to find the correct alternator bracket as well.

 

If it’s a 12.7.You can use the bracket I posted, along with a pad mount double pulley alternator, and a pad mount Sandens compressor, with double pulleys, and correct plug, or change the plug, on the harness to match the compressor. Depending on what’s available. I would start at the dealer, asking them what is the most common 2 pulley compressor available in stock. A easy option, is to find a Truck, with the set up you need. Same 2 pulley system, same hose fitting type, same plug type. Except pad mount. Use the vin from that “ ideal” set up, to order parts.Or you can use your vin # and replace with original equipment, and keep the same alternator and compressor.

 

If you bought original brackets from dealer, or eBay, the best ear mount compressor would be Sanden part # 4392, it’s a super heavy duty compressor, with a fused clutch, that will blow, if compressor ever locks up, and will continue to spin in idler mode. I think your lines will work, might have to change them, along with the plug pigtail, if you give me the model# off yours, I can check all that. Either way, it’s worth changing hoses and electrical if needed, to use this compressor.

 

Will that new bracket direct mount to the cover without modification or will holes need to be drilled in order to install?

I believe the original bracket looks like this instead. Converting to the serpentine setup instead of the v belt setup would require the new bracket, new accessory pulley, serpentine belt, and new type of alternator, correct? This would be a much better setup than the the vbelt setup.

 

Yes, I just realized he would need the serpentine tensioner, and acc drive pulley. On mine, it all runs on that one belt. Except the fan, fan has 3 single groove belts, to crank. I’m just about positive the tensioner bolts to the bracket.

 

I’ve since replaced my front cover, inner and outer. And put the new bracket posted earlier on. However had I known about this bracket. The final upgrade, in 2002. I would have gotten it, along with the upgraded inner front cover, This set up, looks good. Note the 4 extra bolts, going down into the cover

 

It will bolt onto the cover. No drilling. They’re all the same. The only one that’s different is the 2002 upgrade I posted, Looks like only inner cover and bracket is different. I really wish I had that set up. Just a matter of time, till new cover gets wallowed out, and bolts start breaking. Time will tell.