New to me 1693 Cat - looking for upgrades

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by 1972RedNeck, Aug 20, 2018.

  1. 806 man

    806 man Bobtail Member

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    New on here, Back in the 80's up to early 90's I owned a pete which had a 1693TA plus retarder
    3 cool things about the 93 #1is the precup rattle #2 is the turbo whistle there is nothing else like it. #3 the engine was a powerhouse back in the day.
    I looked at your photo's you have the big turbo ''3-4'' wide compressor housing'' on it that is a 375 hp setup add the air cooler then its 425. A 325hp had no cooler plus small turbo. That turbo will easily put 35 psi if fueled correctly. One issue that concerns me is your timing method that isn't a stock setting. First is my disclaimer. THIS SHOULD ONLY BE DONE BY SOMEONE WITH FLOW TIMING EXPERIENCE THIS IS AS I REMEMBER IT. I HAVE NEVER DONE IT PERSONALLY I ALWAYS PAID A CAT MECHANIC TO COME TIME MY 93.
    Ok so here goes. The best way to time that engine is called flow timing which involves piston TDC and removing #1 injection line and replace it with a 180 degree line at this point it's not as clear to me i believe they would pressurize the pump with air then fuel will drip out of the line the amount of drips in a certain time frame was how the timing was accomplished by rotating the pump. This method is more accurate then pin timing and fly wheel timing marks. Generally the more advanced the more rattle to it because your lighting a fire earlier in compression stroke. You state the engine doesn't rattle now as much which makes me think it was retarded. A 425 hp with advanced timing will easily run 550-600 hp. Learn from my mistakes, If you advance to far and you have 1 or 2 pump plungers out of uniform timing with the other 4 IE say your at 9 degrees and the other 2 are 13-14 those 2 will run extremely hotter then the others which can cause the engine to er lets say self destruct. Proof hindsight is 20/20. I had noticed the engine was trailing puffs of black smoke after fixing the hole in the side of the block and a complete rebuild I had the pump rebuilt and the pump barrels were out of time. Sorry about being long winded here I would hate to see you blow up such a great engine i sure miss my old one.
     
    ODR, 1972RedNeck, Humblepie and 3 others Thank this.
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  3. Oxbow

    Oxbow Road Train Member

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    Good post. Thanks!
     
  4. 1972RedNeck

    1972RedNeck Light Load Member

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    Appreciate the input. Your generation that knows about the likes of a 1693 are hard to find.

    As for the timing, I am certain I advanced it slightly. It has less pre combustion "clatter" but it does have slightly more "diesel rattle", if that makes sense. EGT's dropped about 50° and I think it smokes slightly less.

    Supposedly the pump was rebuilt less than 60K miles ago. Also, do all pumps have the problem of becoming unbalanced or is just the old style pumps? (mine is a new style pump) I know the service manual talks about shims for the plungers to balance them on the old pumps but makes mention that the machining tolerances in the new pump were precise enough to not need balanced...

    If I ever get really ambitious I could stick a degree wheel on the damper pulley and run through the cylinders one at a timing with my timing light. Should be just as good if not better than flow timing, right?
     
  5. 806 man

    806 man Bobtail Member

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    I believe the "newer" engines had the spacer plate between the block and head. I'm not sure if that ties into a change to a newer pump too.
    I have an acquaintance that had 2-3 trucks with 93's He also had a truck shop with lots of 93 engine parts. The guy never throw anything away. The shop is closed but my guess is he still has " the goods" sitting in old trailers.
    i would say he is in late 60's so still good info.
     
  6. 1972RedNeck

    1972RedNeck Light Load Member

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    If you would be willing to get me in contact with him, I would love to try and track down a retarder setup...
     
  7. 806 man

    806 man Bobtail Member

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    One of these days when I'm in his area I will ask. Adding a retarder is no simple project. I believe you would need to change out the big aluminum cam gear drive housing on the back end of the engine along with the engine oil cooler possible need a bigger engine oil pump to supply the oil along with the valve control housing and steel oil lines. The truck I owned had one it worked real well. Finding a unicorn might be easier for you.
     
  8. 806 man

    806 man Bobtail Member

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    If your talking about excessive smoke between gears then on the front of the pump is a adjustment that can be made to lean out the smoke. If your talking about excessive smoke driving down the road with a load then that is different. The truck I had burned as clean as anything else on the road, however, It would lay a loaf of smoke if you stomp it between gears. Need to soft peddle it between gears unless of course you have some 4 wheeler irritating you that you want to make disappear in your mirror. :)
     
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  9. 1972RedNeck

    1972RedNeck Light Load Member

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    That is correct as far as I have found except that the oil pump is the same for engines with and without retarders - they use a priority valve to keep enough oil to the engine while the retarder fills. As for the simplicity of the project, pulling the engine out of the truck and tearing the back of it apart isn't exactly hard, it will just take some time. In reality it needs to be done regardless to fix the oil leaks.

    On a different topic, the air compressor finally gave up the ghost. I was hauling hay for a couple days and when I checked the oil one day, it was suddenly a gallon low. Filled it up and checked the coolant and found a hint of sludge on the cap. As I went through the day, I noticed oil dripping form the air dryer. The next morning after we finished up the oil was 6+ quarts low and the coolant was full of oil. Pulled the compressor off and apart and found traces of oil/antifreeze sludge laying on top of the pistons.

    Anyways, what in the air compressor would let oil in the water? Would a simple rebuild fix the problem or does something have to be cracked?

    I have a compressor off of a 3406E that I hoped would work but the gear is different and it has a straight shaft where mine is tapered so the gear won't swap.

    Cat wants $1600 for a reman Tu Flo 500 like my truck has. While I'm at it, could I upgrade to a 550 or better yet, a 750? I just need one with the same bolt pattern as any 3406 but with a tapered shaft...

    Anyone have a part number of such a beast?
     
  10. 806 man

    806 man Bobtail Member

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    I’m not much help on your air compressor issue. Hopefully it’s not your oil cooler leaking water into your cooling system. Getting the goo out takes a lot of time. When I have a problem such as yours I hook up a garden hose to the engine side where you have a port into the water jacket, Add some cascade dishwater soap. Get the engine up to temperature and open the hose up just a trickle withe radiator cap off, Oil naturally floats to the top this way it is forced out through the top of radiator,
     
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  11. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    Try Bepco in NC. They may have to build yours and you may have to go through a distributor. They built an inline four cylinder compressor off a Mack for me. I thank they should be able to help you out.
     
    spsauerland Thanks this.
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