When you try to crank the truck the 100 amp fuse next to the fuse box under the hood blows. There's no click or anything from the starter. you can see the whole length of heavy gauge wire that runs from the battery to the starter and there's no evidence of a bad wire to that point. Heavy ground wires seem to be intact as well. I've been told that it will have to be a heavier wire to short to cause it to blow the 100 amp fuse.
Things done to the truck:
- new starter
- new fuses and relays
- batteries tested good (12.6V on each battery without cables attached)
- ignition tested good
- tested voltage at wires to starter (with starter out we clamped the wires that go to the positive on the starter together and clamped the wires on the ground together... ignition wire not connected to anything) the reading was 12.6V without turning the key, 12.2V turning the key.
- with starter out of truck applied power directly from the batteries and it would spin (although slowly).
The truck has been down too long already and the dealership, various mechanics, and mechanically inclined friends have all failed to isolate the problem. Any insight would help as I am not an expert but feel I have nowhere else to turn. I will be watching this post like a hawk so any details you need just let me know and ill do what I can to make it happen. thanks in advance.
No crank, no start 2006 international 4300
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by wherestheswitch, Jun 30, 2018.
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Start with starter spin slowly after taken out and bench tested. That seems odd.
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Also battery voltage tells very little they need to be load tested separately.Heavyd Thanks this. -
If you connect power, jumper wire, to the starter solenoid control post does it spin the engine? Might do that with a 100 amp fused to the jumper wire.
Heavyd Thanks this. -
To blow that 100 amp fuse is a major major short with a heavy cable. You easily weld with that kind of amperage. I think something must be wired wrong to cause this, hard to say more without seeing it. Did this just start or were there other repairs before?
BoxCarKidd and AModelCat Thank this. -
I agree. Something downstream of that 100 amp fuse is connected directly to ground, either by mistake, failed component or a rubbed through wire.
BoxCarKidd Thanks this. -
the problem began a few months back when a starter went bad. I had it replaced. apparently when it was replaced I was told it was wired up wrong and the one who said it was wired wrong made a corrective attempt at it. After he did his rewiring of the starter the truck actually ran for a few weeks. one day I tell my son to go start it for me one morning, and i can hear it cranking but it didnt start and then that is when the starter stopped doing much of anything. also I tried jumping the solenoid terminal and had a smaller gauge house wire jumping the fuselink (it was my first attempt to see if it would at least spin) and with those two thing jumped I would touch the positive terminal to its post (activating the starter) and so far as I can tell there was nothing from the starter. Is it possible that something melted in that starter creating that big of a short.... while still being able to spin outside of the truck? Ill try to get some pics today and see what you guys think. also here a link to the starter im using for reference: https://www.amazon.com/Leece-Neville-Titan-Starter-M105R2502SE/dp/B00AY23V8M
Last edited: Jul 1, 2018
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I wonder if they have the cranking power cable not routed directly from the batteries, but the other side of the 100amp fuse. Double check your main starter cables and their routing.
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Hey folks. I will update this with more info I've been working on the truck most of the day. I took some pictures and I'll get it all posted soon but I have a few errands to run
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