Old Trucks

Discussion in 'Questions From New Drivers' started by farmerjohn64, Jul 22, 2020.

  1. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    I considered an aero century, back in 2000, against a Classic. They were quite a bit cheaper, for one yr old repos, I decided a Classic was the better choice. Mainly because of resale, and the ability to wrench on them much easier. Real fuel economy differences were only .5 mpg. That’s right from a 5000 Truck fleet, with a combination of both. Choice seems clear.
     
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  3. Dave_in_AZ

    Dave_in_AZ Road Train Member

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    Century was the most bad ### shaker. It just had a feel to it.
     
  4. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    That’s a fair price,$5000. I’ve heard as high as $7500. I did mine last year, myself. Clutch, rear main, re sealed the rear cover. New mounts. Maybe $1400 in parts. And it only took me 7 weeks to do it. Lol. You get the point!! Never again. I’ve never been so sore and greasy, day after day. But I did it my way. Learned something, mainly to leave the heavy stuff to the Pros. It was a tough job.
     
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  5. tommymonza

    tommymonza Road Train Member

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    .5 mpg is huge when fuel prices were up. Hard to believe such a difference.

    I’m guessing the non-Aeros had air cleaners and side mount exhaust.

    Still nice to work on the rear of the engine without having to take a SawsAll to the firewall
     
  6. Dave_in_AZ

    Dave_in_AZ Road Train Member

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    Oh I agree completely.

    "Honey. Could you call someone to get the transmission off of my face please."

    Mine was down for a week. Think actual wrench time was 3 days.
     
  7. tommymonza

    tommymonza Road Train Member

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    I’ve got a gantry crane. To me I just as soon pull the engine and tranny all out together.

    I spoke with one of the mechanics at my company shop and he asked why would I want to do that.

    I said I really would like to do the clutch and rear main.

    He’s like in an hour I could have that transmission on the ground.

    I was like in an hour I could have the motor all unhooked and unbolted and ready to pull.

    I hate working on my back or under a vehicle anymore.

    Just as soon pull it all out and weld up a cart and put it all on it and work on it from there.

    Gives me access to clean up and sand and paint the frame . Replace the motor mounts.

    I’ll probably do the same thing with the rears.

    Gotta replace all the bushings anyways.

    But I am not putting any real money into the truck until after the election .
     
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2020
  8. WesternPlains

    WesternPlains Road Train Member

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    Yes.... you must obey Hours of Service.
     
  9. Rubber duck kw

    Rubber duck kw Road Train Member

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    At that point you may as well rebuild the engine while it's out. A lot of extra work to go to just to do a clutch and rear main.
     
  10. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    F0A714C9-F50E-459F-9B7F-304BCB1DBF6F.jpeg
    She had to help. “ I didn’t sign up for this!” Lol. Oh yes you did!! She barred the engine over, while I torqued the clutch. Complaining the whole time. I had to make her bar it around one extra time, just to get even. Lol. She did a great job also, pulling the trans with the chain and p/u, had her on the phone, while I guided it. Luckily it lined right up. She’s a Trooper, alright. Once towed me with a chain across the Greater New Orleans bridge, in rush hour traffic. Using hand signals. Lol.
     
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  11. tommymonza

    tommymonza Road Train Member

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    The problem with that is it’s got a million 175 on it and starts right up even in 20 degree weather with no smoke.

    You can’t even tell it’s running.

    Run it through the gears down the road. Same thing. No smoke what so ever.

    It had the heads done at a million. Last Blackstone oil sample from when I bought it from the original owner came back impressive for a motor with that mileage

    I hate to mess with Old Quality true Cummins parts if they aren’t indicating wear.

    I’m thinking roll in new bearings and new oil pump

    New piston coolers

    I ll try to contact the machine shop on the receipt I received for the heads from the previous owner to ask if they would have installed new valve springs.

    If not I’ll install some new ones .

    New injector harness under the cover. Stick with the old injectors for now

    New accessory drive bushing and seal.

    New water pump and high torque starter and alternator belts and hoses. Turbo hoses and inter cooler pipes inspected or replaced.

    Fan clutch

    Inspect turbo for oil leaks and wear.

    Radiator, clutch throw out input shaft , tail stock bushing and seal Motor mounts.

    Probably some exhaust.

    See it never ends.
     
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