P-Pump Cummins question

Everything you're trying to achieve can be done on all stock parts, except you want a pyro. Drill and tap the manifold right before the turbo where it divided. Put the pyro in the back half of the division. 1,200* pyro will be plenty.

Start by just sliding the plate forward a little bit at a time. Drive it, and see if you like it. Once power is where you want it, work on how fast the turbo lights. That's in your starwheel. It adjusts pre-boost fueling. It's a dance between lighting the turbo, and tuning out black smoke off the line.

Next, bump your timing to 16ish degrees. Retune for smoke, because it will smoke a little bit more.

Last, do a retorque on your head bolts. Don't loosen them. Just tighten each one more. There are specs you can look up on retorque. That will buy WAAAY more power than you're looking for. You really only need studs when you're crazy on timing and drive pressure.

Also, you might get rid of the 3k, and get a 4k. It's not about the RPM, so much as it's so much more snappy throttle response, and so much more driveable.

You can run that HX35 to 36psi before it starts getting pushed off it's map.

And a nifty thing we discovered years ago - on a stock to mild single turbo, multiply your psi by ten, and it will be almost EXACTLY what your horsepower is.

Now you're looking to stay under your tranny rating. These P-pumped engines build free power crazy fast, and you'll toast your stock clutch before you ever have to throw parts at that engine. For example, the Cummins I put in my Chevy. Slid the plate all the way forward. Ground 3/8" off the front of that bracket the AFC foot mounts on. (Provides more rack travel), then tuned for smoke. 4k springs. Laid down 359/831 the first time I ever dyno'd it.

And that engine isn't scared to get hot quick. So watch the pyro.

If anything doesn't make sense, I can elaborate. Also, you can do every bit of this yourself with basic tools, except you need a special socket for the timing(to remove the delivery valve holders), but you can get the socket and dial indicator as a kit from Snap On.

 

Also, don't grind your plate just yet, until you start liking your results. And you don't need to remove the turbo to tap the manifold. Just drill and tap with the engine idling. One more thing that actually makes a big difference, is swap your AFC spring behind the diaphragm for one that came out of a pump with an automatic transmission. They're softer, but it brings on fuel smoother. And keep us posted!

Here's how easy they are to time: (three videos courtesy of yours truly. And not the only way to skin this cat, but it's a good way)

 

I don’t know for sure but I wouldn’t be surprised if the timing is already faster because it’s a medium duty truck spec and not a dodge.
They run better in med. duty
I have a truck very similar to the op
I help a neighbor haul hay in the summer with it I load to about 50k gvw and can whip his pump dodge even though he’s loaded around 30k and supposed to have a few more ponies Both are near stock and autos although I am geared a little lower

 

He’s my truck
Using a very expensive ramp to load…

 

2504 or 2544?

 

Believe it was a 2424
I don’t own it I just put the loader on and did some other work

 

That’s getting a little nuts. My first truck was a B75 with a Cummins. 262hp 840ft/lb. And you use more than that to haul six packs and BBQ.

 

That's nothing. My brother daily drove a '98 quad cab with 1,100 horsepower. After that wasn't enough, he built and dropped a 6.7 common rail in it. And he's got a 300' puller with a 12 valve. My other brother has a 10 second drag truck that's a 12 valve in a '61 Ford.

Hell, my wife drives an L5P Duramax now. LBZ and LB7 before that. And before those, all we had was my Chevy. Then even before that I put a 6.2 GM diesel in a Ford Bronco. We like diesels.

 

You like torque!