Hi folks, looking for advice from someone that has done a lot of power adding mods to a 3406E, 2WS is what I’m dealing with. I have a 600hp ecm tune, performance cam & injectors, a borg warner non wastegated turbo. Rough estimate on power level would be 700-750hp. I had a problem with head gasket blowing over a year ago. First time it blew I removed the head and found the fire ring cracked on number 5. Checked liner protrusion and found it to be slightly out of spec. I had some liners taller than the others. I didn’t have the down time to correctly address the issue so I installed a new gasket and ran it for a few weeks and planned to schedule a time to get the block machined and liner shims installed, however after talking to a couple performance companies they said the key to getting a high hp cat to hold a head gasket is to start with a block with a machined deck to ensure it is completely flat from front to back, whereas doing the in frame machining and installing shims it is nearly impossible to get all the liners EXACTLY the same height and the block deck completely flat. So I did, I bought a refurbished block and it was flat within .001” across the width and length, installed new liners and spacer plate and had a consistent .005” protrusion on every liner. I used all OEM car parts. Now, little over a year later the head gasket has blown once again. Does anyone know a permenant solution to making cat head gaskets hold long term at higher horsepower besides reducing the power? Thanks for the help
Performance 3406E head gasket solution ??
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by caterpillar4811, Feb 6, 2018.
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Cat sdp, dustinbrock, caterpillar4811 and 3 others Thank this.
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I've heard gaskets are made with poor quality control? I wonder about a custom copper head gasket?
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Also, you see the saw cuts in the head? Those are also an issue for some guys. Those relief cuts are supposed to help with cracks in the head, but actually in my opinion they distort the head gasket when the head is bolted and torqued down, causing problems.
I agree with what @superhauler said. If youre gonna build one that you want to last, I'd go with the fire ring and get the sawcuts filled in and machined. It's worth the money in the long run.Last edited: Feb 6, 2018
wore out, caterpillar4811, SAR and 1 other person Thank this. -
It's mostly the machine work and the foundation your working with. If someone does their homework on the block, head and liner clearance and they make sure it's right, then usually they hold up with good head bolts (CAT or ARP) and correct torque. But if you are building a big horse, then you need to go a step further in my opinion anyways to make it last. Especially if your hauling heavy all the time.379 cat, Dustyroads38, Tug Toy and 5 others Thank this. -
Thanks for the info guys! I haven’t ever seen a cat head with O rings but I totally agree it’s a solution because I have put o ringed heads on my Ford diesels with great success. Anyone feel the need for head studs or do the factory bolts provide plenty of clamping force?
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I haven't found a headstud kit on the market yet, but I use ARP headbolts.wore out, SAR, Oxbow and 1 other person Thank this. -
ARP shows a part number in their online catalog for Caterpillar C15 Head stud kit so I called them and asked about it but they told me it’s still in development and isn’t available to purchase yet. She said to check back at the end of Feb.
Oxbow, SAR and snowman_w900 Thank this. -
I had heard the rumors that ARP was thinking bout it producing a stud kit, but never heard anything else on it.
Thanks for the info.
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