Pete 378 key switch problem, HELP!!!

Hope you have a lefthand drive!!!! The "C" panel is the one just left of the steering columb, usually has a pyrometer in it. Just behind it there is a master relay mounter on a horizontal aluminum deck, three leads, power, one from the ign switch, & the switched lead, have had the "wonderfully sealed Peterbilt windshields" leak water directly onto & into this relay. "Last thing" if the button won't stay in the reset position either there's a dead short or, the beaker is bad. Stil' tryn'

 

BTW!!! Congratulations on finding that breaker by the starter, that one likes to hide!!

 

If the "ign" breaker is popped out, you will not have any juice # the switch. You might wind up pulling the breaker panel out to get behind it the check that breaker with your voltmeter. Could be either a dead short someplace popping it out or a bad breaker like 9axle said.

 

Fixed!

Thanks for your help. Turns out the circiut breaker was corroded on the back side and not making a connection. Replaced it with an inline 20 amp fuse, works great!

Thanks again!

 

breakers do go bad take a test light and check both wires off the breaker if one has no power thats your problem

 

This was going to be my suggestion as well. Mine is located on the left side and has a flip down reset.. I just have to push it back up into position. Stumped me for a while tll I found this.

 

driving 2-3 year old trucks gave me just as much downtime due to breakdowns as my 9-14 year old trucks. Seems like every year trucks get more complicated with more #### to break down and harder to fix lol manual trans, no egr, no dpf and you can put it in gear even if you clutch brake goes out, dont have to get towed for bad def, no bad egr pushing coolant out of coolant tank, and on and on...