Pete 379 weird clutch rattle question....

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by djb379pete, Jun 10, 2021.

  1. djb379pete

    djb379pete Bobtail Member

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    Aug 28, 2013
    Preston md
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    So been chasing a vibration for a bit with my truck, rears were replaced less 6 months ago, 18 spd Eaton trans bout a year old, as well as 2050 clutch. Truck is a 04 379 with a mbn c15 that’s rather well tuned. Pretty much thought I had issue all resolved and vibration in floor started last week beneath my pedals, so went ahead and did cab mounts and motor mounts since they both looked worn. While checking some other things I’ve noticed I have quite a bit of play in my cross shaft clutch linkage at the bellhousing. All that was new when trans was put in, a new 2050 Eaton clutch was also installed. Release bearing and cross shaft are greased every 10k when I service truck. I do watch to make sure I’m not overgreasing, so what would cause all this excessive play? Is there a way to fix or replace without pulling trans? Any advice or tips would be appreciated. Thanks
     
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  3. baha

    baha Road Train Member

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    Most likely they forgot to put the new cross shaft bushing in, ck. all the u/joints for slop in them 1 at a time, look at all the end caps of both drive shafts to be sure they are lined up with a string, one spline off can make a vibration that will do what you are feeling?
     
  4. djb379pete

    djb379pete Bobtail Member

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    Aug 28, 2013
    Preston md
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    Thanks man I will definitely check that. Shop I had it done at was supposed to put all new u joints in when I had rears done, I will check like how you suggested to make sure it’s not out of phase. I take it only way to replace cross shaft bushings is to pull trans out again? I know some vibration is to be expected with big injectors and marine cam, just seems like sometimes the trans area of my floor in truck has more vibration and noise then there should be.
     
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  5. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    Look close to see that the slid yoke is not off 1/4 turn. That is easy to over look.
     
  6. Dino soar

    Dino soar Road Train Member

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    I'm not sure if you can do it with the transmission in but if you could sneak up through the inspection cover and get the bolt off of each side that holds the fork then you probably could pull the shafts out.

    As for the bushings themselves, the way I did mine I took a hacksaw blade and I cut a notch through the bushing and then I cut another notch. You have to be careful not to cut the bellhousing. Then I made a very narrow chisel that would go between the bushing and the bellhousing knocking the notch out first and worked my way around until I knocked it all out.

    I think it would be tight working but you probably could do it if you could get the bolts out of the fork. And you really should see if a torque wrench would fit in there because those bolts should use Loctite and be torqued in.

    I suspect those guys probably did not replace your shafts at all. You'll be able to tell if you get them out you will see the wear. It is best to replace the shafts anyway even if you don't see a lot of wear and put new bushings in.

    With that you will be glad that everything is new, and you won't have to worry about that at least until you need another clutch if you keep them greased.

    You will notice a massive difference in how your clutch pedal feels.
     
  7. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    They make a one piece Reamless bushing. When I bought my fork kit, the shop suggested them. Claimed that’s all they use. Easier to install one (instead of 2) on each side. Can easily be reamed a bit if slightly damaged while installing.They're softer than the Originals. I literally used a screwdriver to straighten the one side, that got a little buggered up, pounding it in. I think they were a copper alloy mix. Depending on if you need the fork kit. The right side can be turned around, putting the worn part against the fork. The linkage side, if worn you’ll have to buy. In that case, it’s probably better to get the whole kit. It’s cheap.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2021
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  8. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    31C7226C-8213-475F-A06D-7CE117BDFFC6.png Not sure if this is the part # you need, but they looked like this. Just have to line up the hole for grease. Shout out to @BoxCarKidd for talking me through my Clutch job. I had bitten off way more than I could chew!! Thanks again.
     
  9. djb379pete

    djb379pete Bobtail Member

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    Aug 28, 2013
    Preston md
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    Thanks guys I appreciate the info. I will definitely check out the one piece bushing as well. I did find that the slip yoke was about one tooth off so that took care of most of my vibration. Multiple picks up in south jersey today and only thing I can feel is may be in need of new shocks but no driveline vibration.
     
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  10. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    Glade to hear that.
    If everything works well rock on. If you can no longer adjust the clutch, because the the top of the fork is is hitting the pressure plate, ask more questions.
     
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  11. djb379pete

    djb379pete Bobtail Member

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    Aug 28, 2013
    Preston md
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    Thank you sir, I appreciate the info and if that happens I will definitely ask away. Thanks guys, be safe out there.
     
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