so my pyro temp guage has many times read 1000 but lately has gone to 1100 which is the highest id ever seen it. also my boost seems to have dropped to where now im lucky to get 25 at 1500 rpms. it used to (like last month) get around 40 plus if I recall correctly. this motor has the twin turbos I beleuve. Iwasnt really even going up hill or loaded really heavy when this number was climbing but it seems that no mztter what engine rpm im at and what gear im in, I cant keep this pyro temp below 1000 for long at all. basically when I shift, it will drop momentarily but then as I accelerate, it goes right back up again.
any ideas and help are well appreciated. thanks guys.
pete 379 with cat acert. egt /pyro temps 1100
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by lokahi117, Dec 16, 2013.
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also I am parked and revved the enginenin neutral and got upmto 1500 rpms with no boost pressure. the guage is on zero. is this normal?
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If you are not getting enough air or boost it will raise exhaust temp. Sitting still idleing them up usually doesn't show much to any boost she has to be in a pull. Lack of fuel can also cause low boost. They feed off one another in laymens terms. Do you hear a loud whistle when driving and pyro is climbing. If so you have a leak between the pressure side of turbo and intake. Most likely a boot (rubber hose) that connects to CAC in front of radiator, or a bad CAC. Should get some black smoke from this. If no whistle that you hear look at fuel and air filters. Could be a turbo problem but they are usually more pronounced.
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how will know if it is bad air filters and I think when I checked the cost was I think around 200 or more per filter. does this seem right?
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yes that seams very high, it should not cost more then 150 for both filters and they should be changed at least once a year, maybemoreoften depending on operation
lokahi117 Thanks this. -
I'm with Wore Out, it's probably a leak somewhere in the air to air, but to check the air filters just take the rubber elbows off where they go into the breathers, then take it for a drive and see what it does. If you don't have the plumbing to check the cac and boots, just mix up some soapy water and put it in a spray bottle and spray everything and look for bubbles.
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Check everything wore out said, also check the turbos, in my case a piece of the exhaust sleeve wiped out the top turbo. when you drop a gear and get the rpms up around 1700 it should cool off to about 900*, the temp should climb as the rpms come back down. I'm guessing a bad leak or bad turbo.
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I was thinking about a bad turbo, would act similar to his symptoms but haven't seen it yet so I didn't want to post it. Just thinking how a compound set up works it sounded good in my head. Not saying this in a bad way but it may be best for the op to get his truck looked at. I know he wants to learn if for no other reason than getting ripped off. Its much easier to grasp with some one holding the piece in their hand pointing out why its bad and how to check it. Puncher had the best suggestion on the air filters, If I don't have or trust the indicator A short ride will tell without wresting them out.
puncher Thanks this. -
So you're saying just crack the boots on the inside of the engine for the air filter open a bit thus bypassing the air filter a bit and see if the problem is better, and if it is, then I know I need new filters. I am in North Dakota and on a lot of dirt roads in the summer where there is a air amount of dirt and dust all the time. And come to think of it I have been running this truck for about 5 months and I don't know it's history before that and judging by the condition of the truck they may have let maintanence slide a great deal. I had to spend a good long couple of days fixing numerous things in the truck just to get it road worthy. I'm hoping it's not a bad turbo. If so how much are they and how hard to put on this truck?
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